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Cerro Laguna
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Atlantis 
Tatonka 

Tatonka 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook
Season: December-April
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Josh Cook on Apr 20, 2011
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Thor on P4

Description 

This is perhaps the easiest route that can get you to a Cochamo summit. From the laguna, hike up the Cerro Laguna slabs for about 300m, veering left until you get to a ledge below a left facing dihedral. Start roping up here, following the pitch description:

P1: Climb the dihedral and then move right onto the face. Cruise up the slab to a single bolt belay (gear can be found to back up the bolt). (5.6R 60m)
P2: Move up dihedral until it joins with a roof. Go right then follow cracks up the slab until you reach a big roof. Rope stretcher! (5.6 63m)
P3: Simul up easy 3rd and 4th class until reaching a cairn. Climb face to a single bolt protected slab above a roof crack. Surmount the slab and reach a two bolt belay. (5.9 30m)
P4: CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE-
- Up the beautiful arching hand crack in a corner to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a 50m)
- "El Ciego" Up the left finger crack to the blank slab. Finish at same anchor as arching hand crack. Amazing, heady pitch (5.11b R)
- "Goats, Chickens & Lizards" Out right through broken R-rated but easy climbing for 3 extra pitches that meet up with pitch 6 (5.6 R)
P5: Climb up the slab and tapering off corner to climb corners and face past a few bolts and eventually up to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a 50m)
P6: Climb slab past a bolt to a two bolt anchor. (5.8 20m)

  • Scramble and hike to the summit.

DESCENT: Rap route with two 60m ropes. Make sure you remember where you went!


Protection 

Doubles of C3s to #3 Camalots
Set of nuts
Long slings and draws
2nd Rope for rapping



Photos of Tatonka Slideshow Add Photo
Josh on the "El Ciego" variation of Tatonka, contemplating a huge runout.
Josh on the "El Ciego" variation of Tatonka, conte...
Thor on P4
Thor on P4
Unscathed after the .11b runout!
Unscathed after the .11b runout!
Topo from the refuge.
Topo from the refuge.
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