This is perhaps the easiest route that can get you to a Cochamo summit. From the laguna, hike up the Cerro Laguna slabs for about 300m, veering left until you get to a ledge below a left facing dihedral. Start roping up here, following the pitch description:
P1: Climb the dihedral and then move right onto the face. Cruise up the slab to a single bolt belay (gear can be found to back up the bolt). (5.6R 60m)
P2: Move up dihedral until it joins with a roof. Go right then follow cracks up the slab until you reach a big roof. Rope stretcher! (5.6 63m)
P3: Simul up easy 3rd and 4th class until reaching a cairn. Climb face to a single bolt protected slab above a roof crack. Surmount the slab and reach a two bolt belay. (5.9 30m)
P4: CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE-
- Up the beautiful arching hand crack in a corner to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a 50m)
- "El Ciego" Up the left finger crack to the blank slab. Finish at same anchor as arching hand crack. Amazing, heady pitch (5.11b R)
- "Goats, Chickens & Lizards" Out right through broken R-rated but easy climbing for 3 extra pitches that meet up with pitch 6 (5.6 R)
P5: Climb up the slab and tapering off corner to climb corners and face past a few bolts and eventually up to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a 50m)
P6: Climb slab past a bolt to a two bolt anchor. (5.8 20m)
- Scramble and hike to the summit.
DESCENT: Rap route with two 60m ropes. Make sure you remember where you went!
Doubles of C3s to #3 Camalots
Set of nuts
Long slings and draws
2nd Rope for rapping
|By Jordan Collins|
From: South Lake Tahoe
Jun 22, 2014
Not a recommended route at this point. Poor topo. If your going to do this make sure to go into it with a full on adventure climbing approach, every pitch is extremely dirty and not straight forward whatsoever. However while we were on the 3rd pitch two condors flew out of a nest on the wall to the left of us and flew around us for awhile. Which was pretty rad.
|By Josh Cook|
Jun 23, 2014
Haha! My apologies for the poor topo and the poor route! Dirty? Not straight forward? Adventure?! Oh no! And I here I thought climbing in Patagonia was gonna be fun and easy...
(Yes, a bit tongue-in-cheek. Sorry, I couldn't resist.)