Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cerro Laguna
Select Route:
Atlantis T 
Tatonka T 

Tatonka 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook
Season: December-April
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Josh Cook on Apr 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Thor on P4

Description 

This is perhaps the easiest route that can get you to a Cochamo summit. From the laguna, hike up the Cerro Laguna slabs for about 300m, veering left until you get to a ledge below a left facing dihedral. Start roping up here, following the pitch description:

P1: Climb the dihedral and then move right onto the face. Cruise up the slab to a single bolt belay (gear can be found to back up the bolt). (5.6R 60m)
P2: Move up dihedral until it joins with a roof. Go right then follow cracks up the slab until you reach a big roof. Rope stretcher! (5.6 63m)
P3: Simul up easy 3rd and 4th class until reaching a cairn. Climb face to a single bolt protected slab above a roof crack. Surmount the slab and reach a two bolt belay. (5.9 30m)
P4: CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE-
- Up the beautiful arching hand crack in a corner to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a 50m)
- "El Ciego" Up the left finger crack to the blank slab. Finish at same anchor as arching hand crack. Amazing, heady pitch (5.11b R)
- "Goats, Chickens & Lizards" Out right through broken R-rated but easy climbing for 3 extra pitches that meet up with pitch 6 (5.6 R)
P5: Climb up the slab and tapering off corner to climb corners and face past a few bolts and eventually up to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a 50m)
P6: Climb slab past a bolt to a two bolt anchor. (5.8 20m)
  • Scramble and hike to the summit.

DESCENT: Rap route with two 60m ropes. Make sure you remember where you went!

Protection 

Doubles of C3s to #3 Camalots
Set of nuts
Long slings and draws
2nd Rope for rapping


Photos of Tatonka Slideshow Add Photo
Josh on the "El Ciego" variation of Tato...
Josh on the "El Ciego" variation of Tato...
Thor on P4
Thor on P4
Unscathed after the .11b runout!
Unscathed after the .11b runout!
Topo from the refuge.
Topo from the refuge.

Comments on Tatonka Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Jun 22, 2014

Not a recommended route at this point. Poor topo. If your going to do this make sure to go into it with a full on adventure climbing approach, every pitch is extremely dirty and not straight forward whatsoever. However while we were on the 3rd pitch two condors flew out of a nest on the wall to the left of us and flew around us for awhile. Which was pretty rad.
By Josh Cook
Jun 23, 2014

Haha! My apologies for the poor topo and the poor route! Dirty? Not straight forward? Adventure?! Oh no! And I here I thought climbing in Patagonia was gonna be fun and easy...

(Yes, a bit tongue-in-cheek. Sorry, I couldn't resist.)
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Oct 22, 2014

Sorry if i insulted you at all just helping people not get into the same situation as we did thanks for putting it up. sheesh