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This route has amazing movement and flow. It's fairly continuous but most of the harder moves are near the bolts. The first bolt is about 25 feet up at the top of the huecos. You might find a huge stick clip here, but you can also place a stopper at the bottom of the huecos. Climb up through the huecos and at the first bolt head left. Find a way to reach the jugs up left and angle back right to clip the 2nd bolt. If you can hang out here, you might be able to sling a chickenhead between the bolts. Continue up to reach a small overhang and the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up from here using many sloping holds. From here keep going up and right passing 1 more bolt until you reach the shuts.
From the approach trail on the left side of the cliff, this route is about 30 feet to the right from the point where the trail meets the cliff. Look for a cluster of huecos low on the wall.
4 bolts, shuts. Take a couple stoppers and some smaller cams 1" or less.
|By Joseph DeGaetano|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 29, 2012
One of the best mixed routes anywhere!!! This wall is amazing.