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Buffalo Wall
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Tatanka T 

Tatanka 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-3 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-3 [details]
FA: Harrison, Van Betten, Mamusia 1993
Page Views: 1,425
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Mar 15, 2009

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Andrew climbing p2

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb the slab leading to a good ledge at the base of obvious overhanging corner. Belay from 1 good bolt and a big cam. 5.6, 120ft.

Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.

Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left ward traverse leading to a bolt ladder on a steep section. At the top of the bolt ladder a couple more moves guard the anchor. The anchor has 1 very good bolt, bring a couple small cams(black alien) and/or a baby angle. There is a very good but sloping and shit covered ledge here. 5.9R, A2, 130ft.

Pitch 4: The Swift corner. Follow the splitter crack(under a roof) left and turn the corner. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt. Continue up a very long section of bolts and hooking, with a few free moves here and there, on good rock. The belay is hanging and has 1 very good bolt and 1 okay bolt. 5.9, C2, 170ft.

Pitch 5: Start free climbing off the belay. Clip 1 good bolt then traverse right on the obvious foot rail. You are heading for a bolt just over a small roof. Step up high on this bolt to reach a bathook in the varnish above. Step up high on the bathook and mantle onto a big ledge. Go up and left on the ledge, being careful of loose rock. Belay at 2 very good but spaced bolts. This is Pabst Blue Ribbon ledge and would make a good place to bivy. 5.10R, C2, 100ft.

Pitch 6: Free climb up and traverse right then back left. You are aiming for the first bolt of a bolt ladder up an incredibly steep wall. Climb the bolt ladder with the occasional free move. At it's top traverse right on a small ledge to reach the belay at 2 good bolts. 5.9, C1. 130ft.

Pitch 7: Free climb off the belay by traversing right then straight up to a tree on a sloping ledge. Continue up the headwall above climbing on hooks between bolts. Belay at a good ledge from 2 good bolts. 5.8, C2. 140ft.

Pitch 8: Free climb up off the belay. About 20ft up traverse right on a small ledge. Face climb up aiming for the obvious right facing Dihedral. Pull over the top and tie off to a couple of trees.
5.9, 170ft.

Location 

Good beta photo's in the guidebook by Jerry Handren will help you locate the route. But it's really easy to find with or without them.
The beta photo(in the guidebook) for this route is accurate on the first few pitchs, but is totally off for the last 3 or 4.

Protection 

Nut's: 1-2sets HB offsets, 1.5 sets regular.
Cams: 2 each from Black Alien to #3 camalot. 1 #4 camalot.
Pitons: 3-4 KB's, 4-5 LA's, 3 Baby angles.
Hooks: 2 cliffhangers, 1 talon or bathook.



Photos of Tatanka Slideshow Add Photo
Josh on way steep headwall
Josh on way steep headwall
Josh climbing p3
Josh climbing p3
Buffalo Wall
Buffalo Wall
Topout with city lights behind
Topout with city lights behind
Top of p2
Top of p2

Comments on Tatanka Add Comment
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 15, 2009

Some comments to avoid clutter in the description.

This route is steep, good and brilliant. Don't let the large number of bolts fool you, the first ascentionist's only bolted when they had to, even in the middle of some bolt ladders they avoided bolts when possible.
The bolts used anywhere but anchors are "interesting".
All anchors have at least one 1/2 inch Rawl/powers bolt. Most have 2.

On some of the pitchs, most notably pitch #2, there is a weird calacite in the crack. This calacite does not allow cams to stick...forcing you to nail where you normally wouldn't. I've never seen anything like it. I'd speculate that, should this route see more ascent's, the calacite will eventually wear off allowing for clean placements.

On pitch 3 be careful of the large detached....not loose, detached....block near the start of the pitch. You need to use it to climb, but if you pulled it off you'd most likely kill your partner. It seem's good for now though.

It is possible to bail off at the top of pitch #7. Just scramble to the right.
If you really want to sew the climb up bring triple cams from green alien to #1 camalot.

This is a very fun and challenging route.

josh
By Andrew Gomoll
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 16, 2009

This was a great route in a spectacular setting. Like Josh said, it is steep and sustained. expect mandatory free climbing on most pitches between hooks and bolts. Don't be afraid of the approach, with a light load it can be completed in under two hours in the dark if you have scoped the trails in advance. Hats off to the first ascentionists. another great day in the canyons.

andrew