Tasty Talks  5.8 M5 R

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, 8 pitches, 1400 feet Consensus:  5.8 M5 [details] FA:  Phil Wortmann and Erik Wellborn New Route:  Yes Season:  fall-winter-spring Submitted By:  erik wellborn on Dec 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route.

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Tasty Talks is a recent addition to the "chossaneering" routes being put up on Campbird Road. Anybody used to climbing solid granite will be horrified, but most choss hounds will find it good adventure to a pretty cool summit. It is similar to Bird Brain in dry conditions but longer and looser.

1st pitch. Scramble to base of obvious chimney, ascend for 70m to a ledge. 5.8.
P2. Keep following chimney and belay below a ominous looking slot. 5.8, 60m.
P3. Climb the slot with surprisingly good hooks and gear. Stop and belay on nice ledge after 50 feet or continue up chimney system. M4/5.
P4-5. Continue up rambling, easy ground and belay on ledge system before final headwall.
P6. Climb up the steep slot on good rock that gives way to choss all too soon. It is perhaps the technical crux. M5, 60m.
P7. Continue up chimney on nasty, yellow rock. Where the chimney becomes overhanging, traverse left on a rotten ledge to belay in a corner. This is the cerebral crux. M4, 40m.
P8. Although it would be possible to go straight up, we traversed to the next corner/ fist crack. Climb this and then angle up and left on slabs to belay at a tree. M5,70m.

At this point, we unroped and scrambled about 300 feet to the summit.

Location 

The route is located downriver on the large, imposing buttress above and left of Fall Creek. Park at the campground, cross the river, and hike straight up hill aiming for the center of the buttress. The route starts in the left hand of two prominent chimneys. For the descent, we did a single rope rappel off a small pine tree about a 100 feet below the summit. From here, we and followed the ridge straight back a ways to game trails that descended into the Fall Creek drainage. This is probably not the best way down during high avalanche hazard.

Protection 

Doubles to 3", 1 #4. A #5 is useful. 5-6 knifeblades, LAs, baby angles, spectres.

Photos of Tasty Talks Slideshow

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Phil on the 1st pitch.	Chossaneering fun!	3rd pitch.
Approaching the headwall.	Cool mini-summit.