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Camp Bird Road
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Chock Up Another One T 
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Choppo's Chimney T 
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Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
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O'Donnell's Route 
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Rusty Cage T 
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Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tasty Talks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M5 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 8 pitches, 1400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M5 [details]
FA: Phil Wortmann and Erik Wellborn
New Route: Yes
Season: fall-winter-spring
Page Views: 809
Submitted By: erik wellborn on Dec 29, 2012

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Chossaneering fun!
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tasty Talks is a recent addition to the "chossaneering" routes being put up on Campbird Road. Anybody used to climbing solid granite will be horrified, but most choss hounds will find it good adventure to a pretty cool summit. It is similar to Bird Brain in dry conditions but longer and looser.

1st pitch. Scramble to base of obvious chimney, ascend for 70m to a ledge. 5.8.
P2. Keep following chimney and belay below a ominous looking slot. 5.8, 60m.
P3. Climb the slot with surprisingly good hooks and gear. Stop and belay on nice ledge after 50 feet or continue up chimney system. M4/5.
P4-5. Continue up rambling, easy ground and belay on ledge system before final headwall.
P6. Climb up the steep slot on good rock that gives way to choss all too soon. It is perhaps the technical crux. M5, 60m.
P7. Continue up chimney on nasty, yellow rock. Where the chimney becomes overhanging, traverse left on a rotten ledge to belay in a corner. This is the cerebral crux. M4, 40m.
P8. Although it would be possible to go straight up, we traversed to the next corner/ fist crack. Climb this and then angle up and left on slabs to belay at a tree. M5,70m.

At this point, we unroped and scrambled about 300 feet to the summit.


Location 

The route is located downriver on the large, imposing buttress above and left of Fall Creek. Park at the campground, cross the river, and hike straight up hill aiming for the center of the buttress. The route starts in the left hand of two prominent chimneys. For the descent, we did a single rope rappel off a small pine tree about a 100 feet below the summit. From here, we and followed the ridge straight back a ways to game trails that descended into the Fall Creek drainage. This is probably not the best way down during high avalanche hazard.


Protection 

Doubles to 3", 1 #4. A #5 is useful. 5-6 knifeblades, LAs, baby angles, spectres.



Photos of Tasty Talks Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the headwall.
Approaching the headwall.
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Phil on the 1st pitch.
Phil on the 1st pitch.
3rd pitch.
3rd pitch.
Cool mini-summit.
Cool mini-summit.
Comments on Tasty Talks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Dec 29, 2012

Might want to add where the rap is and if there are in situ anchors?
How would you rate it vs. BB in good conditions? Avi hazard vs. others in the area.

Nice job! Just want to add beta for those that might follow...uh, like me!?\

By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Dec 29, 2012

Lee, we rapped off a single, scraggly pine tree about 100ft below the summit. No slings or fixed pieces were left on the route....

Minimal avalanche hazard on the route itself. The approach could have some areas of hazard but mostly avoidable. The descent we took could be sketchy with fresh snow.

Similar difficulty wise to BB when it's totally dry.

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Dec 29, 2012

Thx Erik. Might just get on it, as I like Choss. Climbed a bunch of shitty volcanic stuff in my long life. Hope to meet up soon.