|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008|
|Comments on Tasty Freeze||Add Comment|
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jemez Rock lists an independent line as Unnamed (5.10+) just left of Tasty Freeze. I'm not sure where it is.
I think only 1 logical "mixed bolts + gear" climb exists in section of Chilly Willy Wall, and it goes at about 5.9 and is Tasty Freeze. Maybe if you don't stem off the block at the beginning, and stay left rather than clip the 2nd bolt, you could make it a contrived 5.10+ by staying left of the black streak (not protected well, but could be toproped).]
After some discussion with a few folks, we figure that Tasty Freeze probably follows the line marked as Unknown 5.10+ in 'Jemez Rock', rather than the line where it is marked to the right, in the same book.
By Bryan T
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 9, 2009
Quality route. Good holds. Fun!
Use a .75 C4 once you are standing on the huge Jug, then get the first lie-back and throw in a #3, hit the next bolt and make a few face moves then throw in a #4 at the top. Quick draws work fine for drag.
Wouldn't hurt to have 30' of webbing to extend the anchor at the top if you're gonna top rope it, to prevent massive drag.
Not sure what the R rating is. Possibly if done without pro or directly up the face without the boulder, but if done without the bolder pile it would proly be beyond 5.9