Good beginner to intermediate lead with thought-provoking moves on the slightly overhanging, but juggy second half. Those patient enough to tolerate some brittle rock at the start are in for a treat on the gymnastic upper half.
Step into the bottom of an obvious impression, clip up, then move out right to a ledge. From top of ledge, move back left onto the route and up. From here on up, to keep the route at the grade, the route is intended to follow line to the left and over bolts; not up the crack on the right.
Pulling the route direct at the bottom and/or to the right of the bolt line pushes the grade up quite a bit.
Currently the only route on the south face of the rock. Go through gate in fence downhill from right-most end of Sweet Rock then hike up and around to back side. Going around this way helps avoid the bees in the tree against the rock and just past the fence.
9 bolts to chain anchors
|By Daryl Allan|
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
The bees in the tree just past the fence and up close to the wall are very active now. If hiking around to TTR, cross the fence down at the boulder or even down further through the gate. Continue up trail and you'll see the bee tree (see topo for location). Don't get too close!! There are no routes near the tree.
Dec 31, 2010
I liked this route, but the four of us who climbed it recently consider the rating--5.8--to be a serious sandbag. Climb this route and compare it to the other 5.8's on Sweet and Trad Rock and you'll see what I mean. To be honest, it felt about 5.10a, maybe stout 5.9. The start was a bit chossy, but overall a good route. In short, 5.8 leaders, beware.