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> Albuquerque Area
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> Mexican Breakfast For…
Tarantula
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Mexican Breakfast Formation
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Mexican Breakfast Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tarantula T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Peter Prandoni, Ginny LaForme (McKernan), 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,413 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 22, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Tarantula is a nice line. Start with a clean finger crack splitting the slab under the roof. Move left to a wide crack in the right-facing corner. Escape the corner to its left about 15' below the upper left corner of the roof. Pass through a bulge (crux); traverse right to a chimney, and follow easier grooved cracks to the top. A short 3rd class pitch might be needed to reach a downclimb off the back of the rock.
- This climb goes in a single pitch. The rope drag would be better if you split it up, but there isn't an obvious place for an intermediate belay. Use long runners to minimize rope drag.
- Mick's book says you can also turn the roof at its upper left end at hard-to-protect 11-.
- There was more looseness on this climb than I was expecting. I don't think it sees much traffic.
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