Tarantula  5.11a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975 Submitted By:  jason seaver on Jan 1, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jason Seaver on Tarantula. 11-25-06.
Photo by Mike...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This pitch is a bit of a battle. It provides excellent meat and potatos crack climbing with a few drawbacks. I give it a PG-13 because it's one of those pitches on which it's hard to get out of the groundfall zone. As the crack angles out right, the ground underneath it rises with ledges. It's not dangerous, but you have to place more gear than you'd like to, given the overhanging feel of the climbing, to keep it safe. Where the flake/overlap turns horizontal, take the vertical crack up through the overlap to its end than angle over to Strawberry Short Cake's finish.

Location 

This pitch starts on Strawberry Short Cake, then breaks right out the right-angling flake/overlap.

Rap from OJ's first pitch anchor or continue up OJ.

Protection 

Standard rack with a few bigger pieces.

Bolt anchors at the top.

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Nate A following Tarantula. 11-25-06. The straight...