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Old Sandstone
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"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
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Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
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Has Been T,TR 
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One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Tarantula 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Aug 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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James on Tarantula. Awesome send!

Description 

Tarantula offers a left hand start into the same crack system as Gargantua. This route makes a great onsight proposition with nice rests and plenty of protection. The overhanging start throws the hardest moves soon off the ground, and the pumpy hand traverse that leads into the obvious crack is just as exciting. The thin crack above is as fun as it looks, but keep your shoes race-laced for the top out.


Protection 

The lower crux is well protected by small wires and TCU's. Save a couple hand sized cams for the horizontal below the upper crux. Long slings at the bottom of the route and through the traverse make all the difference on the top out. The route is wonderfully protected.



Photos of Tarantula Slideshow Add Photo
Josh in the upper crack of Tarantula.
Josh in the upper crack of Tarantula.
Eric
Eric
Ooh, very aesthetic. Tarantula, 5.10b.
Ooh, very aesthetic. Tarantula, 5.10b.
Tarantula starts on the left crack system where the rope is in this pic.
BETA PHOTO: Tarantula starts on the left crack system where th...
Burt and Eric
Burt and Eric
Power move
Power move
Pausing to look for gear
Pausing to look for gear
the crux?
the crux?
Comments on Tarantula Add Comment
Show which comments
By EB
From: Winona
Sep 2, 2005

One of the better 1o leads at the lake.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 31, 2005

A fun free climb, and also a very nice route to practice your clean aid on.

By Marty Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great 5.10 b lead. I found this climb to be true to its rating, which is uncharacteristic for Devil's lake (Most routes seem to be sand-bagged). The 5.10 section is very fun and overhanging, but not sustained and it protects decently. After the initial moves of 5.10, the rest is a sustained 5.8 hand crack. The 5.10 section protects nicely with a Red #1 BD Camelot and then a green .75 Camelot. Watch out for rope drag.