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 ADVANCED
Mojo Spire
Select Route:
Mr. Bad Example S 
Tar Heel S 

Tar Heel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 39'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ron Dawson
Season: All
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: CO_Michael on Apr 13, 2009

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Description 

Overhanging for the first half to vertical.

Location 

A little out of the way but worth it. Probably won't find others over there.

Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchor.


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By Christopher Parke
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 21, 2014

Wasn't sure if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9, since the grade varies depending on your sources. The overhang feels slightly harder than the typical 5.9, but there are great holds to be found all of the way up. Love this climb, one of my favorites. It is in the shade from 11am on, the holds are lovely, the climb is engaging with a lot of great options, and you'll never run into traffic out here.

EDIT: There is a loose hold on this climb; about a head-sized rock is loose it is about a foot to the right of the 4th bolt. Careful!