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By tytonic
From Salem, OR
Jan 21, 2009

I've been trying to hone my crack climbing skills over the last few years and discovered that I like the protection of tape for any prolonged hand crack climbing. According to all of the other climbers I've talked to and the websites I've checked I'm taping correctly but the problem is that the tape always comes off the backs of my hands, usually after only 1 to 2 pitches. It is still attached around my fingers and wrist but is no longer stuck to the backs of my hands. Are there any good ways to prevent this?


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By John Bradbury
Jan 21, 2009
apollo

Get some Benzoin Tincture and apply it before you tape. Tincture provides tackiness for enhancing the adhesive property of tape. So as you climb and your hands start to sweat the tape wont come loose.

Make sure you get the kind with the applicator brush.

www.brucemedical.com/bentin.html


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By Tombo
From Boulder
Jan 21, 2009
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece blew.

Since I've been buying my tape from our local climbing shop (Neptunes in Boulder) I haven't experienced any rolling. I formally purchased tape from various drug stores etc and their cloth tape always rolled. So if your not buying from a climbing shop at present you may want to try their tape first. I've used benzine (leaves back of hands orange and other spray on product and they work they can be a pain to clean off however.


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By tytonic
From Salem, OR
Jan 21, 2009

Thanks for the input.
I am using Metolius Climbing tape that I bought at a local shop but I'll have to get some Benzoin Tincture and try it.


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By Nathan Stokes
Jan 21, 2009

Tombo,
Any idea what brand Neptune sells (I'm not local their shop)? I haven't been very unsatisfied with the Metolius tape I've bought so far. It seems to have a serious lack of tackiness straight off the roll.


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By Chase Gee
From Wyoming/ Logan Utah
Jan 21, 2009
My Top Secret Yet to be named crag.

If you can find a Hockey specialty store see if they carry Jaybird and Mais. they make like twenty kinds of athletic tape and it comes in colors and stuff but i use their basic tape when i can get ahold of it and the adhesive doesn't come off until you want it to. Its about two bucks a roll and worth every penny. They also have this cool stuff called moleskin but i consider it cheating because the outside is pretty much rubber.


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By colin tuck
From Fairbanks
Jan 21, 2009

Have you tried different methods of taping? I find that wrapping all the way around the palm, and around the base of the thumb, and again at the wrist (rather than making the more complicated tape gloves with a separate wrap for each finger and the wrist backing) tends to be sturdier through the day, although hard to reuse. This usually will get through a full day at Vedauwoo no problem. the tape will always be a little detached on the back of my hands, but won't slip at all.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Jan 21, 2009
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

I agree with the Tincture of Benzoine idea; it's gotta be some of the stickiest shit of earth.

Chase Gee wrote:
If you can find a Hockey specialty store see if they carry Jaybird and Mais.


I don't know about these specific brands, but I buy hockey tape at Play It Again Sports and it's much cheaper than any other tape that I've found. I think it works almost as good as the other, more expensive brands.

--Marc

Edit: The Kendall tape is definitely the stickiest tape that I've found; I personally think it's too sticky. It's also pretty expensive. But if stickiness is what you're looking for, Kendall's the way to go. I'd suggest going with the Benzoine only if the Kendall didn't do it for you; that stuff is a pain to deal with.


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By rob bauer
From Golden, CO
Jan 21, 2009

I'm cheap, so I take advantage of the fact that the full hand tape mit will loosen after a day of climbing and slice the inside of the mit up from the inside of wrist up to about a 1/3 or 1/2 of the inside of the palm and (after breaking any remaining adhesions) slide my hand out. Next time I put a piece of tape, face up on one side, wiggle my hand back in and tape it shut again, inside and out. Add a patch if needed and I'm good to go. Sometimes I have two or so salvaged pairs so I can use a thin pair or maybe a slightly beefier pair, depending on what I'm doing. A bit of work, but ultimately quicker than my friends who do a new tape job. Thin cracks require either a new tape mit, or the thinner style. On wider cracks, the looser fit works fine. I know, it's cheap, it's aid, but gosh it's worked well for over 30 years. (and my hands are lovely)


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Jan 21, 2009
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

In re kendall-curity,

John Langston wrote:
It is without rival in the realm of taping.


True dat! I'd never seen this stuff before I moved out to Yosemite. It's all the shops there sell. Hurts to pull off even after climbing a grade V free route. Shave the backs of your hands to save some grief on a long trip!


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By tytonic
From Salem, OR
Jan 22, 2009

Thanks again for all the help. I think I'll try the Kendall Curity tape and then the Benzoin Tincture if I need it. It sounds like that tape will work a lot better than the Metolius tape I've been using.


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By Bevan
From corvallis
Feb 9, 2010

Here is my taping method, which some might find useful:

I seem to be having trouble embedding video here so just paste this into a new browser window:
youtube.com/watch?v=BnFJ87ZwU-A


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By JLP
From The Internet
Feb 9, 2010

Meuller tape spray. Let it dry really well before the tape. I also prefer the kendal tape, though Johnson and Johnson is good, too, just thicker, which isn't good for the tighter, harder cracks that you tape up for in the first place.

Yeah - tape is good. I was one of those too cheap and lazy to tape for many years, passing it off as some sort of bad-assness with my bare hands and nary a scar. Fact is, I was climbing easy cracks, and when I wasn't, I bled and have a lot of scars now on my hands that open up a lot easier than virgin skin. A good tape job definitely adds productive days to your trip.

My current method is similar to:

www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/tapegloves/tapegloves.>>>

...perhaps with a bit less tape.

Good luck,


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By Kev007
Feb 9, 2010

You can get Kendall tape here: www.allmed.net/catalog/item/2531

You have to buy 12, but at ~$1.75 per roll, including shipping, it's a pretty good deal.


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By TKrosbakken
Feb 9, 2010
me on threading the needle.  <br />photo credit: chen qun

thanks bevan. i like that idea. ill have to try it next time.

you have to add a .com to the link though. here it is www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnFJ87ZwU-A


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By JSH
Administrator
Feb 9, 2010
JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker

I do the Monster-link thing, but with a few key differences.

First, to start, take the roll and go one complete wrap around the wrist. Then come up diagonally across the back of your hand, and do a complete circle just below your fingers, then back down to the wrist - all in one piece. It's important not to have a bunch of little fragments.

Next layer is like Monster - single loops for thumb, index, middle, and pinkey fingers that start well-anchored onto the wrist, and end well-overlapped/anchored onto the wrist band. Here I sometimes double the thumb loop, since it seems to get the most stress.

Finally - a finish layer, same as the first step. This holds down all the individual finger loops, and is prevents rolling as you move your hand in a crack.

End of the day, use a pair of scissors or a knife to cut the wrist loop on the inside of your wrist (just, not your wrist ... that'll get weird at the ER). Then you'll be able to peel the whole thing off (first time's the worst!), and just one loop around the wrist over the flaps will let you use it again & again. The older, the better! It might take you a couple of pairs to perfect the fit, but it's worth it.

Monster said to not use tape on the inside/palm of your hand - I strongly disagree. I find that the band on the inside, on top of your hand (just below your fingers) helps to keep the whole sheet stably wrapped around your hand. Again, continuity is important - keep going with the roll, don't just use a bunch of little strips.

The Best Tape Ever is the stuff they sell at Nomad in Joshua Tree.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Feb 9, 2010
Russ

Have you guys heard? Tape is AID?

For the OP: Try some of the spray on taping base / tuffner stuff. Easier for the carpet bombing of your entire hand than using the small bottles of tincture.


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Feb 9, 2010

johnL wrote:
Neptune is selling Kendall-Curity tape. It is without rival in the realm of taping. Everything else sortof works but works better with the tincture.


Since I switched to Kendall two things occurred: first, I used half as much tape to keep the thing attached; second, I haven't pumped out from over-tight tape gloves. It stretches a bit, and is quite a bit sticker, so I can use less tape (thinner gloves = more sensitivity and doesn't interfere as much while climbing) for the same protection.

Mueller tape is crap in comparison.


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By Bevan
From corvallis
Feb 9, 2010

I must say that in my experience it never feels quite as good as the first time.

I like the feeling of a secure bond between tape and skin, and that just doesn't happen twice with one piece of tape. When you are trying to make thin rattly hands work, a fat glove with lots of loops on the fingers is (I feel) a hindrance, as is one that has been used before.
The taping method I mentioned above will be secure and low-profile in all sizes of crack, and I SWEAR the lack of finger loops does not decrease its utility, it only increases it.


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By Bevan
From corvallis
Feb 9, 2010

Brian, Have we met before? I am from laramie.


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Feb 9, 2010
Viking helmet cover, yep.

Shumin Wu wrote:
Their new stuff is cheaper and crappier.



They had kendall-curity last week


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Feb 10, 2010

Bevan wrote:
Brian, Have we met before? I am from laramie.


Maybe. I used to work at the UW gym, roomed with Jay Jurkowitsch until last December. I've climbed a bit with Edl and those guys but never really could keep pace with them.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 22, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

if you have the money (I don't) try a pair of hand jammies, a partner of mine got a pair and I gave them a try, actually work really well, and much easier to get on and off than tape gloves. just size them right, it would suck if they were too big and ended up flopping around mid handjam.


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Feb 22, 2010

keenan18 wrote:
if you have the money (I don't) try a pair of hand jammies, a partner of mine got a pair and I gave them a try, actually work really well, and much easier to get on and off than tape gloves. just size them right, it would suck if they were too big and ended up flopping around mid handjam.


Keep in mind that if you can't risk the glove or jammy sliding, you will end up using so much tape that it would've been easier to just make a tape glove.

Same goes for reusable tape gloves. Not saying don't do it, just saying that hand jammies have met little success partially because of that problem (also because it seems too much like cheating for most).


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