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The Ineditable Boulder
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Ineditable, The 
Tap Dancer 

Tap Dancer 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Matthew Smoot
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Matthew Smoot on Aug 6, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Tap Dancer starts near the middle of the almost bl...

Description 

Start in the middle of the wall with your hands matched on a thin, right-facing edge and a good low left foot in a small dihedral below. Next, move up and left to a thin, left-facing edge with your left hand. Smear your right foot and move high and right to the obvious, right-sloping, medium edge. From here, use any of the thin foot holds you can find to match and walk your hands up the edge. The crux comes next where a thin, high left foot will set you up to make a big move out left to a sloping edge just left of the fissure above. From there, stand up on the left foot and find a good right hand. Once secure, use the right sloping ledge for a secure right foot then mantle and scramble the last few feet to the top.

You won't be able to power your way through this problem. The route will test your balance and requires some precise footwork. Once you've made it over the lip, you're pretty much home free. The top (just over the lip) is a little dirty but should clean up nicely.

Location 

Tap Dancer climbs the Northeast face of a large, vertical boulder in the boulderfield at the Grotto Wall. Park in the big pull-out and follow a trail heading down canyon (veer left from the parking lot), then slightly south back toward the road (it's the biggest boulder in the area and hard to miss). The problem is on the opposite side of the boulder from the Ineditable Boulder problem.

Protection 

This has a flat landing with one rock to deal with. Two pads and a spotter will offer sufficient protection.


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