Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
New Beginnings  T 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Zed's Dead T 

Tanuki 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Dave Montgomery, 9/13
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/ Summer/ Fall
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: Monty on Oct 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Respect Tanuki's balls.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye, but it took the combined effort between Cody and I to see the awesomeness of this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.

This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game here. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you to a shake in the middle of the route. Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars. Respect Tanuki's golden balls.

Location 

Smack dab in the middle of the steepest part of the dungeon, this is just left of Zed's Dead.

Protection 

Bring red c3 - #1. Lower off a fixed nut anchor.
A kneebar pad can be helpful


Photos of Tanuki Slideshow Add Photo
In the crux on Tanuki vying for the 2nd ascent.
In the crux on Tanuki vying for the 2nd ascent.

Comments on Tanuki Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -