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Tantalus Wall
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Tantalus Wall 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 8 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0 [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Craig Thomson 1982
Page Views: 1,126
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006

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Jon on pitch 6 of the superb piton scarred finger ...

Description 

A distinctive crack line from the base of the Tantalus wall using french ethics. 1st pitch: 11C. Take the left hand crack to the impeccable Yosemite Crack. Classic Ofwidths take you to the top of the 3rd pitch (10A). Easy 4th to Tantalus ledge (5.8). A small finger crack leads to the cedar tree (11B). Use AO bolts Tensioning to the base of the headwall crack system (11A+4pa). Climb two 5.11's to the top of the headwall. Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.


Location 

Scramble up the bullethead gully right below the Yosemite pinnacle.


Protection 

Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.
Some bolts.



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By Shelton Hatfield
From: Austin, Texas
Jan 21, 2014

Hope you're ready for an adventure. This climb is incredible. It is rumored to possess the best belay in Squamish and I'm not inclined to disagree. You'll know when you get there. Apparently there's a 5.8? finish breaking left at an overlap near the end of the route, but not knowing this and being topo-less I took the obvious line up a series of antiquated bolts (A0) that are likely from the FA. Tread lightly