Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Sharp & Lavendar 1981 |
Page Views: | 818 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Jun 9, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
An appealing looking line whose guidebook difficulty and severity ratings of 5.11C S both understate the case. I tried leading Tanquerey immediately after leading Sidewall and found T far harder and more dangerous.
This climb is the right of two clean, hanging, right-facing dihedrals about 30' right of Xanadu on the upper West ridge. To get to the dihedral, you can face climb straight up to a ledge with a tree (easy 5.10, limited pro, suspect rock) or climb easily up a crack system about 10' right of the corner line and traverse in at the level of the ledge; if you take the 2nd option, beware of a horrible death block -- a 100+ lb rock tenuously perched on a sloping slab.
From the ledge, you can get some good small pieces in the start of the corner which allow you to access a smaller ledge about 8' up. Perform a tricky mantle (10-) protected by a couple of RPs onto the smaller ledge. Once standing on the 2nd ledge, reach high and place a #2 RP; ensure the solidity of this piece as it is probably all you will get through the crux -- if it blows, you will probably hit the tree ledge. The crux is the 10' after the small ledge. The left wall is vertical, has no footholds and a few disappointing handholds. The right wall is slabby, has a few foot nubbins and no handholds. There is at least one decent protection opportunity for a small RP in the crux, but good luck stopping to place it. The pitch ends at a substantial ledge about 60' above the ground. A rap anchor exists on a tree in the crack system to the south, about 10' below and 10' to the south of the belay.
Note if you find yourself midpitch, unwilling to commit desperate, tenuous stemming with a single #2 RP between you and the ledge, it is easy to traverse to the crack on the right, climb it (easy 5th class) traverse back to the Tanquerey belay, and rig a top rope.
This climb is the right of two clean, hanging, right-facing dihedrals about 30' right of Xanadu on the upper West ridge. To get to the dihedral, you can face climb straight up to a ledge with a tree (easy 5.10, limited pro, suspect rock) or climb easily up a crack system about 10' right of the corner line and traverse in at the level of the ledge; if you take the 2nd option, beware of a horrible death block -- a 100+ lb rock tenuously perched on a sloping slab.
From the ledge, you can get some good small pieces in the start of the corner which allow you to access a smaller ledge about 8' up. Perform a tricky mantle (10-) protected by a couple of RPs onto the smaller ledge. Once standing on the 2nd ledge, reach high and place a #2 RP; ensure the solidity of this piece as it is probably all you will get through the crux -- if it blows, you will probably hit the tree ledge. The crux is the 10' after the small ledge. The left wall is vertical, has no footholds and a few disappointing handholds. The right wall is slabby, has a few foot nubbins and no handholds. There is at least one decent protection opportunity for a small RP in the crux, but good luck stopping to place it. The pitch ends at a substantial ledge about 60' above the ground. A rap anchor exists on a tree in the crack system to the south, about 10' below and 10' to the south of the belay.
Note if you find yourself midpitch, unwilling to commit desperate, tenuous stemming with a single #2 RP between you and the ledge, it is easy to traverse to the crack on the right, climb it (easy 5th class) traverse back to the Tanquerey belay, and rig a top rope.
Photos
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