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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Tanks for the Hueco 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Brian Mullin, & Charles Walters, 10/87
Page Views: 6,313
Submitted By: Rog on Nov 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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Big holds on great rock.

Description 

Pretty obvious once you're there. Use 'Bullet the Blue Sky' as a reference - this is just to the right of it. Start with a short, (kinda) slick slab. From the top, clip the first bolt, and then do a strenuous, slick layback followed by a 'beached whale' move that leaves you on top of the ledge. Have your belayer watch where the rope runs - it is easy get burnt from a fall onto the rope. After that move you're home free. Two lines of bolts follow huecos up the wall. Not sure which is which - we did the left route. As per Bob D (and I concur), the hueco portion of the route is 5.9.


Protection 

6 bolts + anchors.



Photos of Tanks for the Hueco Slideshow Add Photo
Doucette, "Stefanating" on Tanks.
Doucette, "Stefanating" on Tanks.
Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
BETA PHOTO: Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
Pulling through the lower crux section.  Photo by Jeff Bevan.
Pulling through the lower crux section. Photo by ...
D's Nutz clipping the 3rd bolt
D's Nutz clipping the 3rd bolt
Mike Amato enjoys the huecos on the moderate upper section of the route.
Mike Amato enjoys the huecos on the moderate upper...
Orlando says tanks for the huecos
Orlando says tanks for the huecos
AJ cruising the huecos to the anchors.
AJ cruising the huecos to the anchors.
So many choices!
So many choices!
Eric climbing Tanks for the Hueco.
Eric climbing Tanks for the Hueco.
Sam starting up the hueco heaven.
Sam starting up the hueco heaven.
The crux.
The crux.
Eric climbing Tanks for the Hueco.
Eric climbing Tanks for the Hueco.
Rapping off Tanks for the Huecos.
Rapping off Tanks for the Huecos.
Top rope climb up Tanks for the Hueco.
Top rope climb up Tanks for the Hueco.
Comments on Tanks for the Hueco Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 15, 2014
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 9, 2001

This is a super-cool moderate route that I'd suggest for just about anyone. The first part up to the ledge is a little funky, but the huecos above are out of this world.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 3, 2002

Yes, according to the guide the leftmost hueco line is 'Tanks for the Hueco' and the line on the right is also in the guide. I forget the name, but it is 11b, mostly because it is gradually overhung compared to Tanks. Very fun, do it.

By Jared Brown
Jul 22, 2002

A fun variation for the very beginning is to take the fun hand crack to the right, then a funky move left onto the ledge and the first bolt.

By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 3, 2003

Great climb. The crux was 10d and hard for me. The top of climb is great. It reminds me of the second pitch headwall on Sea of Holes at Hueco Tanks.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2003

Well after the 5.11 start, excelent textbook hueco moves up and left, remember your sun glasses around the third or fourth bolt, or as soon as your heads sticks out past the side, I was partially blinded about 11 or so, great moves however it was hard to see them at first, chains in reach while on the face. Penitente Classic.

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Sep 2, 2003

Is the start of this climb always wet? In the Colorado Climbing Guide, it suggests that the start is wet but locals told us that it does dry out. The upper section of the route looked YUMMY but the water kept us off. When is optimal climbing time for this route?

By Stewart M. Green
Oct 8, 2003

The start of the route is usually wet after rain, even days later. And in the springtime. If it is wet, I recommend just aiding that move by stepping in a sling. The lower part of the route is out of character with the upper hueco section, so just grab through unless the redpoint means that much to you!

By Blake Collins
Jan 1, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My favorite route in the canyon, the start isn't bad in dry conditions, once above the first bolt it is text-book hueco moves to the top, on a sunny day sunglasses or a hat is helpful when moving out left from the shady corner start. The sun has been known to blind on this climb.

By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
Apr 28, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I love this route. With Tanks and Bullet, this is the most fun and most aesthetic formation in southern Colorado.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Superb climb! Just after the first bolt is pretty cruxy and a challenging section to onsight. After that it turns to super-juggy 5.9 buckets. A must do!

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Apr 28, 2008

After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt. I guess the idea was that if you can pull 5.10+ lie-backing, an easy runout after that is no problem. Still, shit happens and this runout is completely unnecessary. Be prepared, especially if you pull through the crux as suggested above.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I second Aki's comments regarding the runout and caution about Brown's variation above- if you try that and blow it you are through. I saw one person shake their way through that option, and it was scary to watch! Made more so by an unattentive belayer- you definitely want an attentive belayer on the crux which, while out of character for the rest of the route is a really fun problem!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After the 10+ lieback at the beginning, there isn't a section of 5.10 climbing. Just some really sweet and pumpy 5.9 jug hauling! Really sweet if you're into doing pullups on big holds. Easier than some 10b's in the canyon I thought....

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I would first like to start off by saying this is THE ROUTE for a 10 climber in the canyon, absolutely stellar! However, I must admit that I wish I had read these comments before climbing this line. The 2nd bolt placement is in major groundfall terrain if you blow it. Yes, the climbing is easy but I recently took a nice 15 footer due to a hold breaking so with this in mind I was terrified. I'm glad I did this route but the run in out of character with the canyon and unnecessary in my opinion.

By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I personally think this is a really good onsight. The crux is textbook, but it's not as good as a crack as it looks. It's 10+. The huecos up top are easy and SWEET, but I got a bit of a pump. Get on it.

I think it deserves an R rating. Getting to the first bolt is interesting in itself but not bad. But if you blew the second clip, that's a ground fall and big drop. It's on easy ground without a doubt. Don't let it discourage you, because this route is amazing!

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 22, 2012

Very strange that you have to make a scary run to 2nd bolt, but the last bolt is about a foot away from the anchors.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Apr 29, 2012

Anchor Replacement, modernization: "After gaining the ledge, you are risking groundfall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary." Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Replaced SMC spinners with 28kN hangers. Come help more on Anchor Replacement Weekend 5/12-13/2012. New sport anchor with Mussy Hooks, so please do not top rope through hooks, use you draws and last climber rap or is lowered.

By Larry Rossi
Apr 15, 2014

Mike Howard, I don't see any change that eliminates the groundfall potential above the ledge. A new first bolt was added down low, which is nice, but the groundfall potential is above the ledge, above what's now the second bolt. That's unchanged unless I missed a bolt. It is very easy terrain, so no big deal, but people should be aware.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 15, 2014

IMO...if you blow the clip...then... it's pretty easy there...come on now, do we need even MORE bolts in Peni?