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Tank Trap 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Bailey
Page Views: 2,202
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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John Ross starting up Tank Trap.

  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A wonderful stemming problem in an overhanging corner.

    Start up through the dusty beginning using small feet and lieback handholds where the thin corner crack opens up enough to accept fingertips. Delicate stemming with a big move or two is required to the fourth bolt (getting to the fourth bolt is a relief—it feels like a long way from the third).

    At this point the angle eases a bit and the holds get bigger. Continue up and stand atop a ledge on the left, then finish with the last eight or ten feet of face climbing to the anchors.


    The right-facing corner at the bottom left of the gully.


    7 bolts (+1 optional, manky pin), ring anchors.

    Photos of Tank Trap Slideshow Add Photo
    Kip Henrie nearing the top of Tank Trap.
    Kip Henrie nearing the top of Tank Trap.
    Finally through the crux...fhew!
    Finally through the crux...fhew!
    just before you notice that those nice looking hol...
    just before you notice that those nice looking hol...
    boy this gets tough fast
    boy this gets tough fast
    don't be afraid to use both sides of the corner
    don't be afraid to use both sides of the corner

    Comments on Tank Trap Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jtwalter
    From: Orem, UT
    Jul 22, 2009

    If more people knew about this route you'd have to wait in line to get on it. Stellar.
    By Christian "crisco" Burrell
    From: PG, Utah
    Aug 29, 2009

    Craziness! It looks like an easy finger-locking steep corner. The stemming put me in strange positions and the feet were either dirty or slippery. The bolts were close together on the easy parts and far apart in through the crux (weird). Altogether, it is fun as it is so unusual.
    By Tristan Higbee
    From: Cambodia
    Aug 30, 2009

    This thing is rad!!! I don't think I've ever done so many dropknees and other funky body positioning on any route. Seemed stiff for .10c but man, what a route!
    By Jeff Jones
    From: Elk Ridge, UT
    Sep 4, 2009
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    There are just some routes that words can't describe. I am not an AF guru but this has to be one of the most unique climbs in the canyon. It is also one that I think I will climb each time I go there. Clipping the 4th bolt is very committing. Emotionally I just know I am going to hit the ground if I blow it even though logically I know it won't happen. Walt is right...there would be a line if more people cared to go there instead of Membrane.
    By Clark Aegerter
    Oct 22, 2011

    I was on this route today and went for a undercling just above the first bolt and it broke....it's bigger now sorry :-/
    By Tony G
    Sep 22, 2013

    This climb is so fun. Totally worth the hike, a must do.
    By Gub
    Aug 19, 2014
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Definitely one of my favorite 10s. Definitely a mental game, as the bolt spacing is pretty far through a powerful section. Nevertheless, very fun and a must-do.
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