Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
d. Tango Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Route T 
Crummy Rotten Crack T 
Gorilla T 
Gorilla Slabs (R.I.P. 1978-2005) T 
Hummingbird T 
Tango T 
Tango Super Direct T 

Tango 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Cohen and Stu Bartram (1964)
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Frank sets up for the Tango Traverse.

Description 

P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to a small shelf below the huge overhang and some fixed pitons (shifting rock, potential rockfall hazard).
Traverse left along the shelf until you can pull into the left-facing corner above (crux, harder if short). Continue up and right to a belay ledge.

P2 - Climb straight up the steep left-facing corner to the ceiling. Clip the bolt, then surmount the ceiling on the right and up to the top.


Location 

At a large, left-facing corner beneath a large overhang.


Protection 

Standard rack. Note that shifting rock on the overhang poses potential danger for this route.



Comments on Tango Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
Feb 28, 2009

Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off.