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P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to a small shelf below the huge overhang and some fixed pitons (shifting rock, potential rockfall hazard).
Traverse left along the shelf until you can pull into the left-facing corner above (crux, harder if short). Continue up and right to a belay ledge.
P2 - Climb straight up the steep left-facing corner to the ceiling. Clip the bolt, then surmount the ceiling on the right and up to the top.
At a large, left-facing corner beneath a large overhang.
Standard rack. Note that shifting rock on the overhang poses potential danger for this route.
|By Paul Shultz|
From: Hudson, Ma
Feb 28, 2009
Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off.