|Type:||Aid, 18 pitches, 2500', Grade VI|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 [details]|
|FA:||Charlie Porter And John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973|
|Submitted By:||Rusty Reno on Jan 27, 2008|
|Comments on Tangerine Trip||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 10, 2009
Climbed this 5/22-5/24/09. We decided on the C3 version. This route currently goes at 5.8 C3/A2. Tons of bomber rivets thanks to the ASCA where the biggest whippers used to be taken on this route historically.
If you don't want beta, then don't read this.
3 ea. .3"- 2"
1 BD #3
1 BD #4 Glad I had the number 4.
2 Cam hooks (medium)
1 Bat hook (Real bathook not the one on a talon)
1 Grappling Hook (Large hook much more necessary than cliffhanger)
1 Cliffhanger (medium hook)
1.5 Sets of nuts, micro offsets useful.
10 Rivet hangers. There are bolts to clip through rivet sections, don't have to leave many except for directionals.
Heads: 2 sm., 2 med., 2 lg. I could hook around 2-3 blown heads, needed to place one on the ascent.
A2 version: bring a 3/4" and a 1" saw off.
A few other KBs and LAs might be nice if fixed gear is blown, 1 RURP.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Feb 26, 2010
|Excellent trip report: terragalleria.com/mountain/inf...|
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2-
|Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better.|
By Ranger Matt
From: Yosemite NP
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.
We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 7, 2012
|I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years.|