Tangerine Trip 

Climbed this 5/22-5/24/09. We decided on the C3 version. This route currently goes at 5.8 C3/A2. Tons of bomber rivets thanks to the ASCA where the biggest whippers used to be taken on this route historically.

If you don't want beta, then don't read this.

Rack:
3 ea. .3"- 2"
1 BD #3
1 BD #4 Glad I had the number 4.
2 Cam hooks (medium)
1 Bat hook (Real bathook not the one on a talon)
1 Grappling Hook (Large hook much more necessary than cliffhanger)
1 Cliffhanger (medium hook)
1.5 Sets of nuts, micro offsets useful.
10 Rivet hangers. There are bolts to clip through rivet sections, don't have to leave many except for directionals.
Heads: 2 sm., 2 med., 2 lg. I could hook around 2-3 blown heads, needed to place one on the ascent.
A2 version: bring a 3/4" and a 1" saw off.
A few other KBs and LAs might be nice if fixed gear is blown, 1 RURP.

• Pitches 1-4 were WET, and real slimy. Running back and forth to get the penjis on 4 was exciting, slipping across slime, diving for the fixed pro. Linked 3-4 w/ 60m.

• If you fix to 4 on day one, the wall is not so steep at this point that you can't swing down to the anchors of virginia. Prolly don't have to do much downaiding if any.

• Pitch 5 was a breeze, lots of fixed gear. I'd give it a C3-.

• Bivyed at the top of 6, nice bivy but the top of 7 is nicer.

• Pitch 8 was the real crux at C3. Grateful I wore my free shoes. A2 version takes those sawed angles.

• Bivyed at top of 12. Ledge has an unsupported corner, puts stress on ledge tubing. Swallows at 13 will sh#t on you, but it is much more protected from elements in storm than 12 or 14. Make it to 14 if you can.

• Note: A bit of traversing and wandering on this route. Leave plenty of pro for your second so they can clean pitches quickly.

Excellent trip report: www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/tangerine.html

Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better.

Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.

We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.

I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years.