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Tang Shwang 

Tang Shwang 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 9, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: this climb follows the red line in the picture. So...


Start on the frontside of the Pillar (not the chimney side), using the wide crack to ascend to the top of the pillar. From there, move up the small roofs above. Use some good underclings and come out of the roofs on the left face to topout.


Start on the Pillar in the large crack.


1 #4 Camalot for the beginning, many small cams. Pro was descent until the second large undercling roof. Up and left is the next gear spot, and it is all hollow/loose. There was a shallow cam spot that was solid, but very shallow.

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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 9, 2009

Fun route. Pretty good gear. Just one sketchy section.

By Unboundquark
Sep 14, 2009

Nice lead... good gear. I placed 3 HB offsets on this route.