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 ADVANCED
Railroad Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Catenary Crack T,TR 
Cop Ripper T,TR 
Cop-Out T,TR 
Face-Off TR 
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Lumby Ridge T 
Old Shoes TR 
Pillar, The T,TR 
Pilloried T 
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 
Right of the Eye T,TR 
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 
Spectacle T,TR 
Tang Shwang T,TR 
Working on the Railroad T,TR 

Tang Shwang 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: this climb follows the red line in the picture. So...

Description 

Start on the frontside of the Pillar (not the chimney side), using the wide crack to ascend to the top of the pillar. From there, move up the small roofs above. Use some good underclings and come out of the roofs on the left face to topout.

Location 

Start on the Pillar in the large crack.

Protection 

1 #4 Camalot for the beginning, many small cams. Pro was descent until the second large undercling roof. Up and left is the next gear spot, and it is all hollow/loose. There was a shallow cam spot that was solid, but very shallow.


Photos of Tang Shwang Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing and looking good.
Climbing and looking good.
In the business
In the business

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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 9, 2009

Fun route. Pretty good gear. Just one sketchy section.
By Unboundquark
Sep 14, 2009

Nice lead... good gear. I placed 3 HB offsets on this route.