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Poland Hill
Routes Sorted
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Clean and Jerk T 
Cool Jet T,TR 
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Piece of Dirt S 
Remote Control T 
Skull T 
Soul of a Poet 
Southwest Friction S 
Stem Christie T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sweet Finish T 
Tanfasia T 
to be deleted - Boulder Hop - duplicate T 
Toadstool 
Underachiever  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tanfasia 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: NA
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Tyler Smeenk on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Sean leading Tanfasia.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located 15 feet to the right of Sugar Crack, begin in a crack with good hands, be aware of possible friable rock at the beginning. Continue up on somewhat overhanging good hands to the pod. Now the fun begins, use whatever technique you can to go through the offwidth pod crawl. I'm talking knee bars, shoulder bars, head bars, anything to move a 1/4 inch at a time. This is a very awkward pod, wearing a longsleeve shirt and pants will help you save some skin. Once out of the pod, use the same anchors as on Sugar Crack and hope your second can follow.

Location 

15 feet right of Sugar Crack.

Protection 

Standard rack, save a big piece or two for the top.


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Tanfasia.
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By Sean Dunlop
From: Durango, CO
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Tyler, I was looking in the new guide book by Robert Kelman, I guess it was originally rated 9+ but with holds that have broken off it was rerated 10a. Just a little tidbit buddy. BTW you beat me to posting the route... bastard!
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
May 20, 2008

Yeah I just put the rating that was in the Heel and Toe. I think it's more of a 10a, especially with that finish. I wish the sun didn't mess up some of those pics of you I took, oh well.
By John Maurer
Jun 8, 2008

Truly unique finish . . . how bizarre. Loads of fun and work, too. The traverse out is exciting for the 2nd if no gear is placed by the leader. Noteworthy position, to be sure. I found I'd occasionally get stuck and just have to lay there until I was inspired by some new tactic. Great route!