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Whitney Portal Buttress
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Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 

Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978
Season: March-October
Page Views: 4,628
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Nick attempting the onsight of Tanager (5.10b), at...

Description 

This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. I am not sure what it is actually called or who were the first ascentionists. In anycase, this is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.


Location 

About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.


Protection 

Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. Two slung bolts are at the top of the crack (without rap rings). Rappel off the slings (do not lower off). Pull the rope slowly so as to avoid weakening the slings.



Photos of Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") Slideshow Add Photo
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
Comments on Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 10, 2007

The route is called Tanager 5.10b FA by Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary in 1978 if you can believe that!

~Susan

By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 10, 2007

Named after the species of bird?

By Darrell Hensel
May 20, 2008

Tanager can now be done as a first pitch to Ghostrider. Continue face climbing past two more bolts after reaching the belay bolts at the end of the crack. The extended pitch ends on the large ledge at the last/bottom rappel station of Ghostrider.

The crack is still the crux so the overall rating remains the same. This is probably the best start to Ghostrider.

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

you can also use this as a great way to warm up for Gangway! Just head right from the anchor up a brushy gully and whamo, yer at the base of the crux pitch (.12a semi-sandbagged IMHO) of Gangway.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2011

Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack!

By Richard Shore
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

If Nimbus over on the right side of WP Buttress is 5.10c, then this really is the "5.11 crack." This felt significantly harder than then crux of that route. Bad feet with lots of 0.5 and 0.75 camalot-sized jamming.

By Richard Shore
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Repeated this route last weekend; this time with the slab extension to link into Ghostrider. I must disagree with Hensel's statement that the slab is only 10a - this felt harder than the crux of the crack below. It was thin, sequential, and in the heat of the sun felt closer to 11a than 10a. Tat slings on the lower-off bolts are currently gone, bring your own if you want to finish at the end of the crack.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Richard, you're spot-on.

Slab + sun = grim

Great route.

By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Sep 22, 2013

Great, full value line. I whipped 6 times before gaining the anchors, then went full air born before making the clip on the slab. Not standard practice for me, but it's so good, and the fall so clean, that it was well worth it. 3 x .75 will be appreciated, if you're breaking into the grade.