Tall T 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Tim Standing, 2007 |
| Submitted By: | Dave Daly on Oct 14, 2008 |
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Climber on 'Tall T', Tall Wall
Photo by Blitzo
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Description A recent addition to the Tall Wall, 'Tall T' was put up by Tim Standing in 2007. The route starts 10 feet right of 'Banana Split', by intially climbing flakes (dirty and loose!) to the open slab above. Most find the crux in between bolts 3 and 4, as one makes delicate friction moves on "kitty litter".
Location In addition to the description above, a variation exists (not shown in the current 'Bishop Area Rock Climbs' guide book) by initially climbing 'Banana Split' (the crack/seam which starts just left of Tall T) to its first bolt then traverse up and right, clipping a bolt underneath a buldge. Continue upward to the fourth bolt of 'Tall T'. This variation can be protected with small nuts (optional) after clipping the first bolt.
Protection 10 bolts. Mussey hooks for anchors.
By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Oct 14, 2008
| Although only "one" star was given for this route, the upper half of this route is excellent, providing a lesson in edging and slab skills. |
By John Jackson
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| This route must be cleaning up and is now a fun route. Nice sustained edging up a steep slab/face. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 2, 2009
| I agree: this route proved to be quite fun and sustained. I definitely give it three stars. |
By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010
| Loose crumbly flakey rock - pulled a big flake off just above the 3rd bolt (I think that was where it was).
Sustained climing - weather was windy crappy and cold (October 2009), making for a miserable climbing day. The route was definitely no gimmie even if the weather had been nice. I'd love to try it again, this time without the crumbling flake pulling off in my hand. |
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b
| This climb will save your sanity as the group you are with insists on spending another morning at The Tall Wall doing the same two climbs over and over and over. |
By jfailing
From: Lone Pine, CA
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| This route *may* have cleaned up a little bit, but the first bit of the climb is pretty grungy - particularly a mantle up onto a flaky hold that will eventually go...
The upper half is great! Typical A-hills crimp/edging. |
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