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Double cracks in a cleft to start, move up and right through a short cruxy roof (look right for bolts). Pull through to steep postive holds and a few more bolts before moving out further right onto the exposed face. Enjoy the roar of the river as you move upwards and slightly left into a shallow dihedral that will take you to the chains. Clipping the anchor can be a touch awkward, get the feet up and find the money mini-jug. A loose block is found just below the anchors to the right, so stay left until you are above it. A very fun climb!
Near the river at far climber's right of the bottom of Gotham City, just to the left of a deep chimney. Receives excellent light as the sun sets over the rim.
Bolts, mussy hook anchor.
Borja styles the roof move.
|By Ken H|
From: Granite, UT
Jun 6, 2012
The roof was awesome and with the prefect protection not the crux at all. The crux is moving out to the right and clipping the bolt on the traverse. If you are not solid at the grade you might take a bit of a whipper.
|By John Farley|
Nov 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This is a super fun route and a personal favorite in the gorge.