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Talk Buttress
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Baby Talk T 
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Empty Rhetoric T 
Hyperbole S 
Look Who's Talking T 
Notalotatalk T 
Over Easy T 
Talkin' Smack S 
Talking Tough T 

Talking Tough 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ruckman, Ruckman
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

This climbs staight up the face to the pin, and then crosses Look Who's Talking just right of a nice hand crack (look for the bolt). Beware, the Ruckman guide is wrong. There is 1 extra bolt between the pin and the roof, and the bolt above the roof is hangerless. This is where the runout exists, as well as your pre-pin moves. This climb has nice sharp edges on beautiful quartzite. Fun moves galore. The finish makes this climb.

Protection 

1 pin, and 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Otherwise bring a couple of pieces to protect the stretches between fixed gear. Nothing special.


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By Vince Romney
Jun 10, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Currently, the bolts are 1/4", on old SMC hangars. I really enjoyed the climb otherwise. Have your trad skills honed as the pro is limited.
By Cameron Charles
Jun 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I didn't think this was R rated, there are some runouts but not in difficult sections. The top bolt hanger was missing, but there was several bomber gear placements adjacent to it. I used a medium sized nut and a 0.4 camalot C4. It is a great route, highly recommended.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 25, 2007

I climbed this again,a nd I would agree that there is no runout. Also, looking at my old book...it shows that the beginning is in the crack system right of the piton. This makes it a little safer beginning. Finally, I had forgotten how magnificent a finish this route has.
By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Aug 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was my first climb actually placing nuts for protection. No runout except for the first 15' to the pin, plenty gear placements when you need them. 1 pin, 2 bolts on the first half of the wall. Use pro the last half.
By Pete Spri
Jun 9, 2010

I don't think this climb is safe.

You have the pin, followed by a new bolt, followed by an old 1/4" bolt. If this 1/4" bolt fails, you're looking at about a 35' fall, and would be very close to hitting the ground. It's rusted as all get-out too.

As far as the first half of the climb goes, there really aren't many good gear placements, you're pretty reliant on the fixed gear to keep you off the deck.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb! Thought there was plenty of supplement gear placements to make this thing safe.
  • *GEAR ALERT**-the last bolt hanger is missing and the stud is sticking out. Pretty good gear all around it so wasn't a problem.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good old school standard 5.9. Not runnout but not a clip up. Gear is fine if you have the right sizes. Best route on the wall
By Greg Z
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 7, 2012

Each point where the bolts are sketch, there is a good trad placement within 3' that is easy to place from a slightly higher stance. I put in a TCU above the rusty 1/4" bolt and a nut above the stud without a hanger. Remember that you can use a nut wire on a hangerless bolt. Just push the nut toward the swage and then back up to cinch it tight. I would not want to whip into that rig, but it helps me get the guts to move up the next few feet to get the good gear.