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New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
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Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

Talking Out Of Turn 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,777
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2008
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Mary Riedmiller starting up the route. Bruno Hache...
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Description 

This is a great two-pitch or one long pitch route that offers great and varied climbing.

If done in two pitches bring 8 to 9 draws. If doing one pitch bring 14 draws.

Pitch 1: Start left of Isn't Life Strange on a good ledge. Climb up past two bolts in the gold face tending left to a corner. Climb the corner and arete up to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the anchor into another shallow corner. Cool moves lead to a good ledge and small overhang. Climb the overhang on the left and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Can be done in one pitch.

A 60-meter rope makes it back to the starting ledge but not the ground...be careful lowering.


Location 

Just left of "Isn't Life Strange" up the gold wall to a shallow corner. Maybe bring a long sling to clip the third bolt.


Protection 

12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor if done in one pitch.



Photos of Talking Out Of Turn Slideshow Add Photo
Bob D beginning the extension to Talking Out of Turn.
Bob D beginning the extension to Talking Out of Tu...
Start of pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch.
Luke starting up the shallow corner after the opening crux move.
Luke starting up the shallow corner after the open...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2013
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 17, 2008

Bob,

Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line?

Sasha

By Dan Brockway
From: Boulder
Mar 20, 2008

Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range.
We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.

By Bruce Pech
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors).

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers.

You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways:

1. Climb Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello (9+, bolts) and continue past the two-bolt anchor to a big dead pine tree on a ledge about 70' up.

2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree.

You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route.

From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this.

By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Bob and Greg,
On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS.
One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length.
One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon.
Will do that route again. It's sooooo good!

An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground:
Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough.
Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon!
Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground.

Beta:
Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 16, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever.
Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries.

By Mike Dallin
Jun 13, 2008

There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the anchor...it moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous.

By Chris Archer
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2009

Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.

The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general).

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Oct 8, 2012

Ouch!

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2013

Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 26, 2013

A new first bolt has been added. Thanks to Bob & Bruno for doing this.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Oct 26, 2013

Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas.

Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement.