2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line?
Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range. We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.
By Bruce Pech May 5, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors).
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO May 10, 2008 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers.
You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways:
2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree.
You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route.
From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this.
By Bruno Hache From: Longmont, CO May 12, 2008 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
Bob and Greg, On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS. One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length. One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Will do that route again. It's sooooo good!
An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground: Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough. Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon! Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground.
Beta: Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 16, 2008 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever. Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries.
There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the anchor...it moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous.
By Chris Archer Aug 4, 2009 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b PG13
The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.
Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.
The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.
By slim Administrator Oct 8, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general).
Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt.
Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas.
Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement.
The large block is still sitting precariously on a small ledge next to the anchor. This gave me quite a fright when I setting up my rappel. I barely touched it, and it started to fall down. I caught it and tried to set it back in a stable position. I'm surprised it's still there after 6 years or so. I'm not sure if further action should be taken to remove the rock, but people should at least be aware of it (it wasn't mentioned in the guidebook we had).
Otherwise the route was pretty fun. Did it in one pitch with a 70 m. We belayed from the boulder, but I was able to rappel down to the base of upper Animal World.