A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large partys.
From the East- Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.
This route pulls a small roof on good holds, and then you pull through another smaller roof on better holds. Crux is puling the roof at the second bolt. After the first roof you can take a rest on a ledge before finished the easier 5.8 climbing above. This route is one of the must do's of the crag....[more]Browse More Classics in VA
This crag has definitely gotten more popular over the last few years. It is now used by a lot of people, including local groups for teaching purposes. Near the upper area (up the trail on the right) there is a 2-bolt ring anchor set up, which I assume was put there for teaching purposes for those new to outdoor sport climbing.
In April 2013, the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), PATC-Mountaineering Section (PATC-MS) and Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) hosted the first (of hopefully many) adopt-a-crag at Talking Headwall. Please help us maintain this area by staying on the obvious designated trails and picking up after yourselves (trash, tape, band-aids, etc). Do a little good thing and pick up some broken glass and carry it out with you. This little crag needs all the TLC it can get!
This place could use some TLC. I usually take a bag with me and pick up trash and large chunks of glass when I see them. Specifically though, there are very loose spinners on the anchors of Fat Bastard and Pure Energy (two of the most popular, and probably most climbed routes here). I would imagine there are more culprits as well. Idk my ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to bolting, but I'm more than willing to contribute some hardware and some elbow grease and gear if anyone's interested.
Overall, the bolt conditions are good. No obvious signs of rust or corrosion. Those spinners have been spinners for... I'm not even sure how long. Quite some time. We should probably put them on them on the to-do list, but they seem to be holding pretty well. Everyone is responsible for their own personal safety, but I don't consider them unsafe.