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Talking Headwall

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Angry Muppets T 
Big Balls S 
Continuance S 
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 
Fat Bastard S 
Foops T 
Fortis S 
I Love Big Jugs S 
I Want a Big Truck T 
Leading Should Feel This Way S 
Little Balls T 
McMurray must be Castrated T 
Ne Plus Ultra S 
Pure Energy S 
VROS ArÍte T 

Talking Headwall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9466, -78.3022 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,360
Administrators: Aaron James Parlier, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: first bolt of Continuance. No one was hurt but be ...

Description 

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large partys.


Getting There 

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.


Climbing Season


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Talking Headwall:
Angry Muppets   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
I Love Big Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
McMurray must be Castrated   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ne Plus Ultra   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pure Energy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fortis   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Foops   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Big Balls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Leading Should Feel This Way   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Talking Headwall

Featured Route For Talking Headwall
Erik chose not to use the first bolt...beast!!

McMurray must be Castrated 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
Scramble to the roof near the top. Pull through the roof on good horizontals. This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so beware of loose rock. Clean route with a follower....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Photos of Talking Headwall Slideshow Add Photo
great rock
great rock
Really cool center section
Really cool center section
Comments on Talking Headwall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Oct 31, 2010

Suggested edit for the directions. From the East, take I-66 West to exit 6, take a left on South 340/522, and shortly after a right on 55 West (Strasburg Road) until the town of Waterlick.

Otherwise you might end up getting off of 66 way earlier than necessary.

Also, Route 678 is actually "Fort Valley Road".

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Nov 21, 2010

If anyone out there knows the name/grade/location of the routes please add them. Seems like an awesome area, and Im sure everyone else would like to know more about the place (I know I would).

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 27, 2013

This crag has definitely gotten more popular over the last few years. It is now used by a lot of people, including local groups for teaching purposes. Near the upper area (up the trail on the right) there is a 2-bolt ring anchor set up, which I assume was put there for teaching purposes for those new to outdoor sport climbing.

In April 2013, the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), PATC-Mountaineering Section (PATC-MS) and Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) hosted the first (of hopefully many) adopt-a-crag at Talking Headwall. Please help us maintain this area by staying on the obvious designated trails and picking up after yourselves (trash, tape, band-aids, etc). Do a little good thing and pick up some broken glass and carry it out with you. This little crag needs all the TLC it can get!

By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Aug 7, 2013

This place could use some TLC. I usually take a bag with me and pick up trash and large chunks of glass when I see them. Specifically though, there are very loose spinners on the anchors of Fat Bastard and Pure Energy (two of the most popular, and probably most climbed routes here). I would imagine there are more culprits as well. Idk my ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to bolting, but I'm more than willing to contribute some hardware and some elbow grease and gear if anyone's interested.

By Legalto
Apr 30, 2014

How are the bolts looking? I haven't been here in a while, but figured I'd ask given Jake's concerns.

By Edwin B
Apr 30, 2014

Overall, the bolt conditions are good. No obvious signs of rust or corrosion. Those spinners have been spinners for... I'm not even sure how long. Quite some time. We should probably put them on them on the to-do list, but they seem to be holding pretty well. Everyone is responsible for their own personal safety, but I don't consider them unsafe.

By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
May 15, 2014

On Leading Should Feel This Way, the second bolt (under the roof) was spinning as of Feb 23, 2014 and has been for a long time now.