Talking Headwall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  38.9466, -78.3022 Map Page Views:  6,855. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Aaron James Parlier, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: first bolt of Continuance. No one was hurt but be ...

Description 

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large partys.

Getting There 

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.

The Classics

Featured Route For Talking Headwall

Leading Should Feel This Way 5.10c  VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. Thi...[more]   Browse More Classics in VA