Tales of Power  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Ron Kauk Submitted By:  Brad G on Aug 27, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Skip leading Tales of Power, photo: Bob Horan Coll...

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is soooo beautiful! The climb starts with an awkward overhanging chimney. After that you get a rest then it moves into beautiful thin hand jams up an overhanging wall. This route shouldn't feel as hard for people with thinner hands. Those with thicker hands may have trouble in the mid-section of the hand crack. I feel like I have normal sized hands and ended up getting about six real tight thumbs up jams in a row. The crack does widen up though so just keep cranken'. The last 15 feet is a tight squeeze chimmney that some people like myself end up liebacking. A classic 5.12 crack!

P.S this climb is featured in the extra scenes of the film "The Sharp End".

Location 

Rappel from the anchors below Separate Reality. The climb begins on a ledge with a tree.

Protection 

.5 to #2
Bring a few extra .75 and 1 sized cams

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Taking a clean whipper of Tales of Power. Photo by...	so clean and splitter	Tales of Power. Photo By D Burd
Starting up the splitter section of Tales of Power...