Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dream Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
Dry Ice S 
Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Long Lost Dreams 
Phantasmagoria T,S 
Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless aka New Route Right of A Brief History S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkles in Time S 

Tales of Power 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 3,418
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brent Pohlmann with his hand on the finishing hold...

Description 

Start 70' uphill from Wrinkles in Time at a slab leading to a right-facing corner capped by a roof.

P1. Climb up right to a small roof and pull it on the right. Layback up to a right-facing corner, then move left and up past a roof to a 2-bolt anchor on the slab. 11b, 80', 9 bolts.

P2. Climb up the slab on an obvious black waterstreak to a 2-bolt anchor. Delicate friction climbing and manteling. 11a, 70', 7 bolts.


Protection 

Fully bolted. You can rap with a 50m rope.



Photos of Tales of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Sean Hudson on 1st Pitch of Tales of Power
Sean Hudson on 1st Pitch of Tales of Power
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of  <br />Power.  Oh, so good!
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of
Pow...
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of  <br />Power.  Can you say friction?
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of
Pow...
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of  <br />Power.
Joey Thompson on the second pitch of Tales of
Pow...
The second pitch of Tales of Power and Journey to Ixtlan.  Tales of Power climbs the black water streak.  Journey to Ixtlan branches out right then comes back to the same anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Tales of Power and Journey to ...
Comments on Tales of Power Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2009
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 1, 2002

1st pitch roof is stiff without extra long reach. 2nd pitch felt much easier.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 6, 2002
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I suppose the long reach beta is to move hard left to the arete after the last clip, to get to the anchors. This is not necessary.

BETA: First pitch roof can be reached from a strange stem into the corner, left foot on left side and right foot coming from the right side, then into a heal-toe smear in the little acute inset. From there, use a little butt-friction to oppose the left foot and undercling smear the "chunks" above in the corner. Move up to good edges. This is not a height-dependent move, but does actually feel like 11a/b.

By Kreighton Bieger
May 6, 2002

I didn't find the roof to be so much reachy as pumpy. However, exiting to the anchors at the end of P1 felt reachy. I ended up with some kind of stem/smear/thrash thing to exit left. That felt hard, like 11 a/b, but not in a fun way.

By Joe Collins
Jul 1, 2002

2nd pitch is awesome slab climbing. If it were at Tuolomne or JTree this would probably be a 2-3 bolt, bolted-on-lead (i.e. bolts protecting the easy parts), 5.10c, sphinctor-tightener

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great climbing on both pitches; a Dream Canyon classic.

The first pitch angles up and cranks an airy roof on big jugs, then power laybacks up to the final corner and roof. The final crux can be climbed in several ways, depending on your height; I use some wide stems. Thoroughly interesting and enjoyable.

The second pitch is sustained slab climbing and mantling, with few positive holds for your hands. Delicate finesse slab climbing at its best.

By Lon Black
Jun 29, 2003

I agree Ron. Fun climb, and the crux can be done different ways depending on one's own body. Tony Bubb says it's done with the stem all the way up to the "chunks", and one person in our group did it that way today. I stemmed lower and then brought my body left and used the left face to reach up and do a fun heel hook to top out. Even though that felt good, another partner did it in a way so smoothly that her's had to be the most efficient, or at least it looked that way for her body. She stemmed to where her left foot was on a decent edge on the left face and the right foot was on the big hold to the right. Then she laid back off her left hand and just lifted her right foot up and left into a cool smearing drop knee kind of position, and then just stood up on it to be able to reach the holds to finish it out. This way seemed the smoothest of the three, but then again, I guess it depends on your own body.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 19, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is one of the best routes that I have done in Dream Canyon. Moving left to the anchors is thought provoking. There are some hidden small crimps on the lip of the overhang that may help. The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first, don't miss out because it is a slab climb.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Mar 7, 2005

Fantastic climb. I was going to skip the second pitch, but it looked sooo good. Although a completely different character, it was equally enjoyable.

By David A. Turner
May 28, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon.

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 26, 2007

Great climb. I thought pitch 1 was bolted very thoughtfully. For a 5'4" climber, they can be reached from good stances. Need to go back and do pitch 2 - looks really nice.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Nov 8, 2008

I'll second what David said. The 2nd pitch has got to be one of the best pure friction slabs around. It would be a classic no matter what area it was in.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 18, 2009

I did P2 again today, and it seemed like it was harder than in the past. I noticed a lot of spots where rock has flaked off. It's still all doable. It's a great pitch, requiring good rubber and balance.