Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Tales From the Hard Side
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 23
votes
Routes in Holiday Block
|
Bird in Hand S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chimney Approach T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Cinco de Mayo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Cruise This S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Fat Tuesday T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Gravy Train T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Launchitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Mark's Menace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
My Dog Has Fleas S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Never Believe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Oyster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Plush S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Pump Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Rabies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Sandrewf T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Tales From the Hard Side S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
They Call Me Cruiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Walking the Dog T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg |
| Page Views: | 2,810 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Nov 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is a fantastic steep and bouldery route with two distinct cruxes, one after the second bolt and one just below the top. Gym rats and boulderers will love this one. Sequence through the first couple bolts is important to minimize the number of moves and to be clipping off the right holds.
Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.
Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.
Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.
Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.
0 Comments