Tales from the Crimp
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.1 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Dave Quinn, Oct '01 |
Page Views: | 1,309 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 3, 2007 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
A very improbable line up a nearly blank less than vertical face. Bring a microscope to find the holds (both hands and feet) at the crux.
I was amazed when i clipped the chains on this one cause you look down and wonder how you managed to stick to the blankness.
Stick clip the first bolt and work your feet up to the good ledge 6 feet up where you can clip the second bolt. Then move slightly right on MICRO crimps. Continue up on hard to locate holds to a good hold where you are through the business and clip the 3rd bolt and make easy moves to the top.
I think this is a great climb but it could be very frustrating for someone who isn't suited to VERY crimpy "on your feet" climbing.
I was amazed when i clipped the chains on this one cause you look down and wonder how you managed to stick to the blankness.
Stick clip the first bolt and work your feet up to the good ledge 6 feet up where you can clip the second bolt. Then move slightly right on MICRO crimps. Continue up on hard to locate holds to a good hold where you are through the business and clip the 3rd bolt and make easy moves to the top.
I think this is a great climb but it could be very frustrating for someone who isn't suited to VERY crimpy "on your feet" climbing.
5 Comments