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Tales from the Crimp 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Quinn, Oct '01
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 3, 2007
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olivia working out the blankness,,, it does work, ...
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A very improbable line up a nearly blank less than vertical face. Bring a microscope to find the holds (both hands and feet) at the crux.
I was amazed when i clipped the chains on this one cause you look down and wonder how you managed to stick to the blankness.

Stick clip the first bolt and work your feet up to the good ledge 6 feet up where you can clip the second bolt. Then move slightly right on MICRO crimps. Continue up on hard to locate holds to a good hold where you are through the business and clip the 3rd bolt and make easy moves to the top.

I think this is a great climb but it could be very frustrating for someone who isn't suited to VERY crimpy "on your feet" climbing.


Location 

The blank face left of Toy Story etc.


Protection 

3 bolts to anchor



Photos of Tales from the Crimp Slideshow Add Photo
mike trying to crimp on nothingness... for his honest feelings on his experience see his comments on this page... <a href='http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/pulse_wall/106055129' >www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/pulse_wall/10>>></a> <br /> <br />again sorry about the quality...
mike trying to crimp on nothingness... for his hon...
Comments on Tales from the Crimp Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 16, 2009

I am a really long way from getting on this route but I have to say this has to have on of the best names in rumney

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Apr 30, 2009

....i poop on this route..... dumb teeny weeny tiny itty bitty smidgin holds.....

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 4, 2010

Started working the moves out on this yesterday. Unlocked the sequence for the top two bolts and TR'd from the ground up to the 2nd bolt stance without too much trouble. I can't wait to fill in the 6ft of blankness and put this route to bed. :)

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 31, 2010

I haven't been on it so I guess I can't comment but it looks painful...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 27, 2012

I couldn't find a partner to climb with and didn't end up bumping into friends at Kennel like I had hoped so I came around the corner and checked out this thing again. I guess I can crimp on tiny edges and nubbins.

Video of me on Tales from the Crimp. My first 12b/c! self belayed :)