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 ADVANCED
Talent Scout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Powerglide 
Talent Scout Left Arete 
Talent Scout Roof 
Talent Scout Standard 

Talent Scout Roof 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Gill
Page Views: 2,431
Submitted By: Zachary Thomas on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Sight in, throw, nail that crimper! Zac Thomas on...

Description 

Avoid the left arete and use the small crips on the face. The crux is using the small undercling under the roof and obtaining the small crips over the lip. Then powering to the top.


Protection 

Crash pad.



Photos of Talent Scout Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Styln' in '72 !
Styln' in '72 !
Comments on Talent Scout Roof Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 4, 2002

An overclimbed route. The ground has sunk over a foot and a half (including the pavers !)in the last 30 years from human traffic alone. The first time I climbed at Rotary in '72 I could just barely touch the bottom of the roof from the ground and I'm (or was) 5'10". Not to even mention the masssive erosion of the starting foot holds. The stickyness of modern shoe rubber is just barely able to keep up with the polish of the holds. See my comments on the Eliminator and the Mental Block for more rantings from a "Crotchity Old Fart"

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 8, 2002

The photos by Skip of Zac on the Talent Scout are NOT the "Undercling". You have the undercling with your right hand and make the delicate reach with your left before matching your right. Zac is pulling off the arete with his left and reaching with his right! The "Old Fart" is doing it right.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 8, 2002

Yes, truly a sorry couple photos. Young Fart doing it right?!?!? His legs are cut off - I'm calling it, he's standing on a chair and posing hard. Lame lame lame.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 9, 2002

Yeah, you got me. It was 30 years ago and I can't remember the chair part so I was either standing on the head of my pet dinosaur or had just dropped a handful of purple micro-dot and was levitating myself :)

By Krister Sorensen
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 16, 2003

I'm going to give credit to the Old Fart. I just got this one a couple of days ago. It either really works with my climbing style or it is a V5/6. Cornerlock is just as hard and it is a V4. With everything so polished it is best to climb early in the morining when it is cold.