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Mesa Verde Wall
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Bad Moon Rising 
Cosmos 
Cows in Agony 
Desolation Row 
Down's Syndrome 
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) 
Moons of Pluto 
Palo Verde 
Reason To Be 
Screaming Yellow Zonkers 
Shadow of Doubt 
Sundown 
Tale of Two Shitties 
Trezlar 

Tale of Two Shitties 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78
Page Views: 1,128
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006
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pitch 2 of Tale...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.

Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
5.7

Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
10.a

Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
5.9R

The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.


Location 

Right of Bad Moon Rising there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.


Protection 

gear to 3" with an extra hand size for the anchor on top of pitch 1.



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By Roche
May 1, 2008

Heather of Seattle, grabbed your Mountain Hardwear vest at the bottom of the pitch. Happy to get it back to you in return for a your Enchantments pass. Get ahold of me and I'll send it your way.

Great route. Super fun, powerful crux. Protect it with a #1 then fire it!

By stj
Jun 28, 2012

Well worth doing for the second pitch finger crack action. It would be very popular if it was a single pitch off the ground. And you don't need 2 ropes to get down: rap with one 60m from the top of Trezlar (see my comment on that route).