Taking time off
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I've been climbing since last October and have been mostly bouldering, doing lots of crimping and powerful climbing. I haven't had any tendon related issues that have required me to take off more than a week or so. Despite my hard crimping, my fingers tend to feel the least tweaky of all my joints. My wrists, specifically my FCU tendons (in the joint between my hand and wrist, palms up the tendons are on the inside of the forearm), are the most prone to hurting, but they go in and out and tend to hurt less than about a 3 on a pain scale of 1-10. Right now, I am injury free. |
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I'm going through the same issue myself and was getting ready to post something about what people are doing for rehab/rest for this issue. I've been having the same tendon pain for about 6-8 weeks and it usually flairs up on crimps or pinches. I climb practically everyday in either an indoor bouldering gym or out at the local crag doing TR and sport. I'm 6'-4", 200 lbs, and climb in the v3-v4/5.10c-d range. I've tried taking 3-4 day breaks to give it a break, but it always flairs back up. |
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Are y'all exercising your antagonist muscle groups too (extensors, etc.)? A lot of times tendon issues are the result of unbalanced muscle pairs. |
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Contact Eric Horst at nicros.com He's the training guru and has more knowledge and experience with this than anyone. At nicros.com look for the Training Center link and you can post questions directly to Eric (ask Eric) and he'll respond. Better to ask the expert don't you think. |
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Ben, thanks for the link! There are some great articles on the site! |
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Zane Dordai wrote:I've been climbing since last October and have been mostly bouldering, doing lots of crimping and powerful climbing. I haven't had any tendon related issues that have required me to take off more than a week or so. Despite my hard crimping, my fingers tend to feel the least tweaky of all my joints. My wrists, specifically my FCU tendons (in the joint between my hand and wrist, palms up the tendons are on the inside of the forearm), are the most prone to hurting, but they go in and out and tend to hurt less than about a 3 on a pain scale of 1-10. Right now, I am injury free. I want to be bouldering for a long time. I plan on taking three weeks off, starting in the last week of November through the second week of December. For reference, I'm 5'11 and maybe 135lbs (probably 130) and I am taking this time to rebuild the psyche and let my tendons fully recover. When i return in December, I'll be climbing in a gym to get myself back into it, will be open handing everything (literally everything) and then will start crimping again in Bishop (will be there from Jan 5th to 22nd). Is this a long enough period of time? Does anyone else have experience starting climbing and moving in to hard bouldering within a year? I don't want to injure myself, so I'm looking for any personal tips or stories. Thanks!A three week break is about right. I work in a 3-4 week break once a year, and 1-2 weeks between each season, for a total of 3 breaks a year. I've been climbing and training hard for a long time...going on 13 years or so. I've had aches and pains here and there but no long-term debilitating injuries as a result of the training. As for your question about getting into hard bouldering within a year...lots of people do it, and no body has a crystal ball. You might be fine, but I can think of a few I know personally who were bouldering really hard within a year and they eventually developed overuse injuries. One reason is that the ligaments and supporting tissue in your hands and fingers take up to six years to respond to training, while muscle tissue is on the order of 10 days, so your muscle strength will outpace the capacity of your supporting tissue very quickly. Another factor may be that it's unlikely that you'll develop perfect technique that quickly, and almost certainly not as quickly as strength, so you may perform moves in ways that put excessive and unnecessary stress on the weaker parts of your body. I've found that lots of stretching of the muscle tissue and icing the critical joints (from your elbows down) can help prevent overuse injuries. I recommend starting that BEFORE you get injured. |
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Thanks Ben and Mike. |
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If you've had a good run and are injury free I'd say that doing a taper through the first few weeks of Dec would serve you better. |
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Thanks for all the advice fellas. The nicros website was great. |
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I think if you cut down the amount of difficult climbing right now, climb everything open-handed, and introduce antagonist training that it would be better than taking 3 weeks completely off. |
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I'd like to resurrect this thread to ask a similar question based on my own circumstance. First of all, I'd like to know if training my antagonist's during time off is a good idea, or just do nothing and let my tendons heal. |