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Green Mountain Pinnacle
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Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,128
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 3, 2001

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Danger Johnson doing business.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun chimney on the west side of Green Mountain Pinnacle. According to legend, during an early ascent by Gerry Roach and Chris Haaland, a live concert was in full swing down in Folsom Stadium. As they were leading the crux, they could hear "Takin' Care of Business" and they started cranking up the chimney to the rhythm of the song.

Hike up north of the pinnacle (see rock for details), past Death and Transfiguration. Head up towards an obvious chimney, which is not hard to get to but requires some routefinding to keep this 3rd class. Rope up in the bowels of the chimney itself, or lower down if you like.

Now simply head straight up the chimney to the summit (only about 60'). This is a serious pitch with only one spot for protection, however as chimneys never seem to be given "S" ratings I have kept with tradition here. It is perfect width for chimneying, and it would be hard to fall if your technique is decent.

From the summit, rappel 80' NW from some bolts to the ground (ending about 50' west of the base of D&T).

From Mic Fairchild's submission: Out of the 250 routes in the Gerry Roach guidebook, this one rates among his TOP TEN. It is certainly the best chimney climb in the Flatirons. Consider approaching by climbing the Fourth Flatiron. The descent from the top of piece three takes you past the Challenger to GMP. You can also traverse across to GMP after you walk thru the huge gash to the top of piece two. Although only 60 feet high, it's as classic as they come.

Spot the obvious chimney below the summit on the North side of the rock. It is uphill of D+T. Scramble up 30 feet into the chim and off you go. No one has gotten lost thereafter. To descend, downclimb Green Sneak, or rapp 80 feet NW to the ground.


Protection 

Light rack. There is very little pro on this pitch, I recall placing only a #1 Camalot and another small cam about 2/3 of the way up.

From Mic Fairchild's description: There is an old piton midway up, and a crack there at the 40' mark, but otherwise no pro in the chimney.



Photos of Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
10.3.05
10.3.05
Shows entire route.
Shows entire route.
The jugs at the lip.
The jugs at the lip.
Christa nearing the top of the chimney.
Christa nearing the top of the chimney.
sorry,  another chimney photo... <br /> <br />This route is just so awesome! <br />
sorry, another chimney photo...

This route is ju...
Sam near the top
Sam near the top
Lichen photo break.
Lichen photo break.
the classic West Chimney
the classic West Chimney
All the descriptions mention starting on the North side, but if you start around the South, you get a little extra squeeze chimney at the bottom and you can see your partner (while belaying).  Maybe this spot is loaded with poison ivy in the summer??  Didn't notice any now....
All the descriptions mention starting on the North...
West Chimney on GMP
West Chimney on GMP
Ryan in the chimney.
Ryan in the chimney.
John "Homie" Prater has just finished Takin' Care of Business.
John "Homie" Prater has just finished Takin' Care ...
The talus field.
The talus field.
The West Chimney as seen from <a href='/v/east-facechallenger/105752620'>East Face/Challenger</a>.
The West Chimney as seen from East Face/Challenger.
Summit.
Summit.
Comments on Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Warren Teissier
Dec 18, 2001

I also read this reference to the Doobies and Takin' care of business on a Roach trip report on his web site.

The only issue is, Takin' Care of Business is a Bachman Turner Overdrive (BTO) song, one of their greatest hits no less.

This makes absolutely no difference, I know. Just wondering if the Doobies ever made a cover of this song...

Did anyone attend that concert?

WT

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 18, 2001

Good point, Warren. My guess is that it actually was a BTO concert. You can read the original story by Gerry Roach at www.climb.mountains.com, under Trip Reports and "The Eight Summits of Green Mountain".

By Will Clopton
Jul 5, 2004

This climb is a rush! Very fun climb and well worth the hike. The leader must be comfortable being ten feet above your last piece in a chimney. The chimney is about 3 feet at its widest. Climbing is easier if you legs are longer. I found solid placements for a #3 Camalot and a #2 Camalot. Use a piton on the north wall near the west edge. As for the approach, there is a trail that stays about 50 to 100 feet north of the ridge heading up the north side of the fourth flatiron from Sentinel Pass. Scramble over a boulder field and look for the trail again. Stay north of the ridge.

By Mike McMahon
From: Vernal, Utah
Sep 29, 2007

As another approach, one could climb the east face 'arch' of Hammerhead and scramble to the east face of the Last Flatironette, which tops out right below D&T. On another note, I found it quite difficult to get into the chimney directly from the west with a pack; it's pretty narrow!

By Jamie Princo
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

We brought a fairly big rack yesterday, since we were doing other climbs throughout the day. I figured, why not, I'll lug some of this stuff up the chimney for training weight. As a result, I was able to sew up the chimney fairly decently, playing seven pieces (wouldn't have trusted two to hold a leader fall) at pretty even intervals. This surprised me seeing that everyone out there talks about only one piece of pro for the route. Has anyone else had this experience and just hasn't spoken up? Thoughts?

jamie

By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2011

This quality of chimney climbing is a rarity on the Front Range and the views from the top are some of the best in the Flatirons. This climb is not to be missed by those who can "take care of business".

There are enough good placements to make this climb managable but there will still be some "do not fall" sections. Look around and you should be able to find 3-4 bomber placements.

I'd suggest a single set of cams from green Alien up to a #3 Camalot and just a few stoppers in the #5-#8 range.

If you were really worried, you could even bring a Big Bro or a #6 Camalot since there is an offwidth crack running up the south wall.

Whatever you bring, just realize that it won't be of much use if you leave your rack on the ground...but that's another story.

By Dan Raymond
From: Longmont, CO
May 29, 2012

You can enter this chimney from the north or the south. The south side is a more direct line, but the north side is easier. Either way, you climb up to the top of a short ramp before descending into the chimney. Once you are in the chimney, you can downclimb and traverse to the east until you are standing on a small block. They say this is Class III, but not everyone will be comfortable doing it unroped. Belaying a partner through this section is a little tricky, but it can be done from the ramp after slinging a tree.

I opted to walk through the chimney and free solo up the east face (the Green Sneak) to set up a top rope from the rappel anchor. This isn't hard, but it is exposed and not very secure in some spots. It is a little unnerving doing this while the birds are dive bombing at you.

We climbed the chimney straight up from the small block with our backs against the south wall. There is a sloping ledge on the north wall partway up that you can use for a rest. Slightly above the ledge there is a piton driven down into a horizontal crack in the north wall, but you will have to traverse to your left (west) to reach it. I didn't see any other protection on the line we took. There are some good holds at the top on the north wall when you exit the chimney. Rappel to the west and you will end up very close to where you started.