Takes a Thief
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BETA PHOTO: Takes a Thief (5.11a R), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
This climbs the center of the Wilbur's Tombstone's impressive west face but unfortunately only involves about twenty feet of difficult climbing.
Scramble up low-angled chunky slab to the base of a slightly overhanging smooth sheet of rock that looks much harder than it is. Clip a high bolt and then lauch up the amazing face, which has positive incut edges just when you need them, passing one more bolt to the top. A fall clipping the second bolt may be hazardous to your ankles - so be careful! There are no anchors specifically for this route so use the anchors on the backside and rap down that face to descend.
The climbing on the upper portion of this route is great, but the amount of actual climbing is woefully short. Were this to be rebolted and have it's own anchor it might see a fair bit of traffic, but until watch those ankles.
2 bolts, chain anchors
Chris Owen contemplates the "headwall".
Pulling the flake just past the roof move..
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Great route, just wish it had at least 1 more bolt maybe between the 2 existing ones. As with what the writer says a fall at the second bolt could be very dangerous.
You can TR this route by climbing up the east face and using the anchor from "What a woman". 2 long slings (20' or so) and a few lockers and your good to go.
Makes the route much more fun and safe. Just watch for the swing in the opening moves