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Bighorn Mating Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caught Inside on a Big Set T 
Dangling Woo Li Master T 
Euphrates T 
Morning Thunder T 
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 
Take Two, They're Small T 

Take Two, They're Small 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Margy Floyd, Kelly Carignan 1985
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: john durr on Mar 27, 2008

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Lieback up a wide crack crux, then move left 10 feet to another hard move up a short crack to the belay of Dangling Woo Li Master.


This wide crack is about 30 feet left of Dangling Woo Li Master and just left of Euphrates. Descent is to walk across slab north then down gully, 5 minutes.


A couple hand sized cams and a 4" cam will do fine. A 3" cam and a bolt for the belay.

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By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Nov 1, 2009

FA. Margy Floyd, Kelly Carignan 1985
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jan 27, 2014

I did this one without knowing any information about it. The crack is a bit wider than I thought. I would have liked 2 #4's but I managed with one. I anticipated the belay would be on the shelf after the wide crack ends. This is not the case. You move left another 15-20 feet to a short, flaring crack that takes a mediocre #1 cam. After this short cruxy move, it's easy to the top. I didn't see a bolt for the anchor. Walked off, although I probably could have rapped Dangling Woo Li Master.

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