Take Two (4)
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 113', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Jared Spaulding & Kristen Tompeck January 27, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||350|
|Submitted By: ||Jared Spaulding on Oct 15, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: As viewed from the valley below Campanille Esloven...
This route is not on Campanille Esloveno, but it is in the vicinity and shares a similar approach.
A short, two pitch route on the west face of an unnamed pinnacle between Julieta and Cecilia. This short and easy route reaches a summit that can accommodate only one person at a time.
It is Grade II 'cause it is a long walk to the base
p.1 climb face and crack to groove. climb groove. move right up face to small ledge. belay. 25m
p.2 climb face to small stance below summit block. sling summit block with long cord or webbing for anchor. 10m
Possible to do in one pitch and it is just long enough to need two ropes for one rappel or to do two rappels.
Descent: rap route
From Laguna Toncek approach as for Campanille Esloveno. Either head for the west ridge of Campanille Esloveno and then climb the 3rd class scree up and to the west of it, skirting Julieta and making your way to the west face of this pinnacle. Alternatively, approach as for Campanille Esloveno but when in the flat valley with the giant boulders below Campanille head south west (mas o manos) and approach directly up 3rd class scree to the base of the pinnacle and go around its northwest side to reach the base.
Standard rack of nuts and cams. Bring 16-20' of webbing or cord to sling summit block for belay and/or rappel. No bolts out here.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch. It was a bit loose bu...
BETA PHOTO: The formation with Take Two on it from the approac...
Kristen Tompeck climbing to the summit of the pinn...
BETA PHOTO: A topo for Take Two