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Campanile Esloveno
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Fonrouge-Bertoncelj 
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Take Two (4) 

Take Two (4) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 113', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jared Spaulding & Kristen Tompeck January 27, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Oct 15, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: As viewed from the valley below Campanille Esloven...

Description 

This route is not on Campanille Esloveno, but it is in the vicinity and shares a similar approach.

A short, two pitch route on the west face of an unnamed pinnacle between Julieta and Cecilia. This short and easy route reaches a summit that can accommodate only one person at a time.

It is Grade II 'cause it is a long walk to the base

p.1 climb face and crack to groove. climb groove. move right up face to small ledge. belay. 25m

p.2 climb face to small stance below summit block. sling summit block with long cord or webbing for anchor. 10m

Possible to do in one pitch and it is just long enough to need two ropes for one rappel or to do two rappels.

Descent: rap route




Location 

From Laguna Toncek approach as for Campanille Esloveno. Either head for the west ridge of Campanille Esloveno and then climb the 3rd class scree up and to the west of it, skirting Julieta and making your way to the west face of this pinnacle. Alternatively, approach as for Campanille Esloveno but when in the flat valley with the giant boulders below Campanille head south west (mas o manos) and approach directly up 3rd class scree to the base of the pinnacle and go around its northwest side to reach the base.


Protection 

Standard rack of nuts and cams. Bring 16-20' of webbing or cord to sling summit block for belay and/or rappel. No bolts out here.



Photos of Take Two (4) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the first pitch.  It was a bit loose but I cleaned a fair amount of rock off of it.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch. It was a bit loose bu...
The formation with Take Two on it from the approach via Campanille Esloveno
BETA PHOTO: The formation with Take Two on it from the approac...
Kristen Tompeck climbing to the summit of the pinnacle.
Kristen Tompeck climbing to the summit of the pinn...
A topo for Take Two
BETA PHOTO: A topo for Take Two
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