Taivallista 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Lowe, Bruce Roghaar, 1970 Probable FFA: Noah Bigwood and Kris Dockstader 2006 |
| Submitted By: | jonathan knight on Aug 28, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: The blue line is Taivallista.
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Description This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10.
Location Located on the third buttress of the wall, it climbs a direct line just looker's right of the arete, through two, prominent roofs.
Protection A standard rack with a good selection of small cams and wires is all you need. Doubles in some sizes are handy for constructing the belays. There is a pretty good looking 1/4" bolt above the roof on the last pitch.
By Ari Menitove
Jul 19, 2009
| Fun route. Indeed, as it continues to clean up with traffic, it is just going to get better. It was a little tricky for us to find exactly where the route begins. It starts in a left facing corner with a clean crack. If you look up about 70 feet, you can see an unusually rectangular roof with a black spot near its center. Just above and right of this roof is a triangular tiered roof feature formed by two intersecting seams. Hope that helps. |
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 7, 2010
| we went right at the big roof on pitch three, pulling the roof through juggy hand jams. this route will get quite a bit better if it cleans up a bit more, but the hard parts are clean enough. |
By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Sep 16, 2010
| Spicy buttcrack micro nut/cam lichen encrusted flare before the first roof. One of the best looking lines in the Cirque. Nice onsight Rob. |
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 15, 2011
| Curious, anyone know the meaning of the name 'Taivallista?' could it be a latin soap opera? enquiring minds would love some Wasatch history |
By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Aug 12, 2012
| Great route! Really inspired line. Crux is interesting and protects well with small offset nuts, C3s and aliens. Climbed in 4 pitches, one in the 1st L-facing dihedral, one above crux roof, one above final big roof (we pulled it on right on jams and jugs) and up a slab past an old bolt, one short 5.easy pitch to top. |
By bsmoot
Aug 12, 2012
| Hey Rob:
Jeff said the name, "Taivallista means heavenly in Danish". |
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