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A fun, bolt-protected slab leads to some excellent trad crack climbing on this slightly obscure route. This is well described in the Jason Haas' South Platte Climbing Northern Volume (p. 232).
Ascend the slab protected by four bolts to a wide slot. About 20 feet past the slot, find a fifth bolt that makes a great directional (three shoulder-length slings) before you traverse left to the base of a hand crack in a right-facing corner. The jamming and stemming on the second pitch made me wish it were longer.
Belay on a broad shelf. Ignore the many tempting cracks rising toward the summit (no anchor up there) and traverse to climber's right, climb up about 30 feet on one of several obvious paths, and then continue right to a two-bolt anchor just around on the south face.
This is the farthest left route on the northeast face, about where you reach the crag if you choose your approach path well and stay above the boulderfield. Look for two large pines side by side in front of a horizontal ledge.
The route begins on the (climber's) right edge of a low angle slab that breaks at that ledge.
As the book says, your standard rack to a #4 Camalot will do the job.
BETA PHOTO: Taint.
|By Mark Roth|
Oct 2, 2013
The first bolt seems useless and I never saw the 5th...
The slab is low angled, but dirty, featureless and exfoliating. The runout after the last bolt is the psychological crux of the route. If it were only a couple degrees mellower, you'd be walking. But it was actually a little scary. The pitch 2 corner is great fun, but too short.