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Taint 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rueben and Jules Flieschman
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Luke Clarke on Jul 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Taint.

Description 

A fun, bolt-protected slab leads to some excellent trad crack climbing on this slightly obscure route. This is well described in the Jason Haas' South Platte Climbing Northern Volume (p. 232).

Ascend the slab protected by four bolts to a wide slot. About 20 feet past the slot, find a fifth bolt that makes a great directional (three shoulder-length slings) before you traverse left to the base of a hand crack in a right-facing corner. The jamming and stemming on the second pitch made me wish it were longer.

Belay on a broad shelf. Ignore the many tempting cracks rising toward the summit (no anchor up there) and traverse to climber's right, climb up about 30 feet on one of several obvious paths, and then continue right to a two-bolt anchor just around on the south face.

Location 

This is the farthest left route on the northeast face, about where you reach the crag if you choose your approach path well and stay above the boulderfield. Look for two large pines side by side in front of a horizontal ledge.

The route begins on the (climber's) right edge of a low angle slab that breaks at that ledge.

Protection 

As the book says, your standard rack to a #4 Camalot will do the job.


Photos of Taint Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck Graves cops a rest midway through the stemming and jam fest on pitch two.
Chuck Graves cops a rest midway through the stemmi...
Fun corner.
Fun corner.
Topping out the second pitch.
Topping out the second pitch.

Comments on Taint Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 2, 2013

The first bolt seems useless and I never saw the 5th...
The slab is low angled, but dirty, featureless and exfoliating. The runout after the last bolt is the psychological crux of the route. If it were only a couple degrees mellower, you'd be walking. But it was actually a little scary. The pitch 2 corner is great fun, but too short.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I never saw the 5th bolt either. It only lists 4 in the Haas guide. The first bolt does seem kind of useless, but it would keep one from falling onto the slab below. The upper crack is fun yet it is really short.