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 ADVANCED
Mee Canyon
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Arch Tower: Dry Heaves T 
Drinking with Gambino T 
Garston Trout, The T 
Moon River T 
Nerve Endings T 
Shaking the Goat T 
Tail Wagger T 

Tail Wagger 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 260', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Andrew Gram and Josh Thompson, Oct. 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Oct 6, 2010

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Surf and Turf tower from the east

Description 

Pitch 1: Start up a thin hands crack. Climb through the OW bulge to a big ledge, then continue up the obvious hand/finger crack above to the belay directly below the double crack second pitch. Belay @ 2 good bolts with chains. 5.10, 100ft.

Pitch 2: Climb the double cracks until they end. Do a couple of more moves up a hand crack and belay below the right leaning varnished crack. The belay is 3 good bolts. 5.10 75ft.

Pitch 3: Climb out the Varnished/ right leaning fist crack until it gets wide and goes straight up. Continue up the OW to a huge ledge, which is more like a sub summit of the tower. The belay is 3 good bolts. 5.11, 60ft

Pitch 4: Step across the chimney and onto the summit section of the tower. Pass a bolt and face climb left then back right to the summit of the tower. Belay at 4 good bolts. 5.10, 25ft.

To descend: rappel the route with 1, 60M rope.

Location 

Located approximately 1 hour hike up Mee canyon. Directly across from The Arch tower and on the same ridge as the Garsten-Trout.

Protection 

1 each: Green, Yellow, Red Alien (or equivalent)
2-3 each: #.75 to #3 Camalot.
1-2 each: #4 to #5 Camalot.
Optional #6 Camalot.


Photos of Tail Wagger Slideshow Add Photo
Parties on Tail Wagger from across the canyon
Parties on Tail Wagger from across the canyon
Me leading the final pitch.
Me leading the final pitch.
The route is obvious in this photo. It is the crac...
BETA PHOTO: The route is obvious in this photo. It is the crac...
Surf and Turf Tower is the tower in the middle of ...
BETA PHOTO: Surf and Turf Tower is the tower in the middle of ...
All of the towers from the east....Surf and Turf i...
All of the towers from the east....Surf and Turf i...
Starting the route on the FFA
Starting the route on the FFA

Comments on Tail Wagger Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 6, 2010

My personal comments on the route.

This was a fantastic trip!

Loading up a raft with climbing gear and heading down river is a woonderful way to climb.
We named the Tower "Surf and Turf Tower". We felt since there were clearly a couple more routes to be done on the tower that the route and the tower should have seperate names. This will hopefully avoid confusion should these other routes get climbed.

The first 2 pitchs were onsighted on the FA.
Pitch 3 will go free without too much effort. All but about 8ft were onsighted on the FA.

All of the anchors are absolutely bomber. All bolts are Rawls, each anchor has one 1/2" by at least 4"(the top 2 anchors are 4.5 ") and all of the 3/8" bolts are 3 inchers.

Hopefully more folks will have the opportunity to enjoy this route!

josh
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Oct 19, 2010

Cool! Great line on a fine formation. Must get back there one day....
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 12, 2012

The route now goes free At 5.11.

FFA: Craig Scariot.

Nice work Craig!

josh