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Tail Tucker Arete 

Tail Tucker 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Adam Kimmerly on Jan 12, 2011
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Description 

P1 (5.10a): Climb past bolts up the slabby face about 30' left of "Cruise Line" and Lunch Rock. Finish at a rap anchor below the start of the dihedral.
P2 (5.10b/c): Climb right from the belay to bolts (what I did... or maybe unprotected straight up?) clipping two of them before veering left into the start of the dihedral as is angles left, then back right to a crux bulge near the finish. Belay at the higher of two anchors. 2 bolts & pro to 2.5"
P3 (5.11a): Climb the steep dihedral straight off the belay. Continuously cruxy and strenuous liebacking, stemming, and gastons get you through the pitch, easing up well after you expect it to. From there either trend right to an anchor top out via the last pitch of "Baby Face" or trend up and left to the last pitch of "Shining Slab", clipping a bolt or two along the way.


Location 

This route climbs the right-hand of two major right-facing dihedrals on the left side of Eagle Peak's Main Wall. The first pitch starts directly below it, just past Lunch Rock where the trail begins to drop steeply along the base of the crag.
Descent: Walk off to the right or rap (bring rap hardware for anchors that may not have fixed hardware!)


Protection 

Single rack with nuts and thin cams up to #2 camalot.



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