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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Mar 8, 2013
J,

If you need a partner for ECM I could be talked into doing that approach.

FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 8, 2013
Chad F wrote:
Its getting there. With the snow in the mountains today and tomorrow prob a no go for the very short term. However it looks like its gonna heat up midweek next week (wed/thurs) into the high 60's. I will most likely head on up there around then.


These are words I wanna hear!!! I am feeling the 23rd and hoping it works!

FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 8, 2013
Jace Mullen wrote:
J, If you need a partner for ECM I could be talked into doing that approach.


If I get skunked out of Tahquitz or don't have partners to go I will hit you up! Probably be the weekend of the 23rd that I will be doing that!

FLAG
By Chris G.
From San Diego, CA
Mar 9, 2013
The Gallery, Red Rocks
I'm in for climbing in SD or trying to get up to Tahquitz!

FLAG
By SeanG81
Mar 11, 2013
Triassic
Bump....anyone have an idea how conditions would be next weekend? How much snow came of that last storm?

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 11, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
WTF is ECM????

FLAG
By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 11, 2013
Guy Keesee wrote:
WTF is ECM????


El Cajon Mountain

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Ryan... THX.

Cause the FOG is returning to the LA basin......

I bet the conditions at T&S are getting just about right.

What's it like Ryan???

No wind?

FLAG
 
By Adam Patten
Mar 13, 2013
Anyone get up there recently? Curious about the conditions.

Also if anyone is looking for a partner for there or in San Diego I could use more climbing buddies. PM me if interested.

FLAG
By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 14, 2013
It was windy on Tuesday and there was significant snow at the base of Suicide. However it was warm and the snow was melting. Rock is generally pretty dry once you leave the ground. This weekend will be fantastic at Suicide or Tahquitz provided you hang around on the south and west facing areas. Expect snow/water on ledges but dry rock. North Face of Tahquitz is out of the question for most people. The Trough area had significant snow still, which surprised me. Open Book is probably awesome right now, except for that pesky water streak that is perpetually there at this time of year on the third pitch traverse.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 14, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Ryan thank you for the conditions report. Sounds like springtime is starting.

FLAG
By Chad_N
From SEKI, CA
Mar 14, 2013
topping out on Hamilton Dome with the Angel Wings in the background
Going to Tahquitz soon for the first time. Lots of 3 and 4 star routes up there. Can you help suggest some routes for us?

Background: I lead up to 5.9/10- on gear in the Sierra & Jtree. My partner for this trip is kind of new. Climbing a year. Follows multi-pitch pretty good to 5.8. Knows his stuff. I have a standard doubles rack. We'll have 1 #4 and a couple large hexes. I dig the wide (easy) but dont really have a wide rack.

'Open Book' looks awesome but maybe too hard for my partner? Maybe 'Coffin Nail'?
We'd like to get in 6 to 9 pitches so recommend a few.

Fastest Descent? Should I take 1 60m rope, 1 70m or 2 ropes?

Thanks for your input!

FLAG
By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Mar 14, 2013
Chad_N wrote:
Going to Tahquitz soon for the first time. Lots of 3 and 4 star routes up there. Can you help suggest some routes for us? Background: I lead up to 5.9/10- on gear in the Sierra & Jtree. My partner for this trip is kind of new. Climbing a year. Follows multi-pitch pretty good to 5.8. Knows his stuff. I have a standard doubles rack. We'll have 1 #4 and a couple large hexes. I dig the wide (easy) but dont really have a wide rack. 'Open Book' looks awesome but maybe too hard for my partner? Maybe 'Coffin Nail'? We'd like to get in 6 to 9 pitches so recommend a few. Fastest Descent? Should I take 1 60m rope, 1 70m or 2 ropes? Thanks for your input!


60 meter single is fine. Almost all the routes are a walk-off. "The Friction Route" descent (used for many, but not all, routes) is hard to find, if you haven't done it or you don't have someone to show you. Get the guidebook; its star (quality) system is pretty good.

FLAG
By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 14, 2013
The following recommendations are for what is likely do-able this time of year.

Tahquitz
Coffin Nail/Traitor Horn- Best 5.8 in Idy
Open Book- For obvious reasons
Left Ski Track- Really cool 5.6, steep for the grade and exposed at the crux
El Camino Real- 5.10 Cool layback, short crux but pumpy, takes good pro
Descend via Friction Route. Easy to do if you know where it is. Look for two large, garage sized boulders up and right after you top out on any of these routes. Go between them and drop down immediately down a very short, easy chimney. Zig-zag down, generally trending left when facing out until you hit the ground. From top out to base of Open Book takes 10-15 minutes or so if you know where you're going.

Suicide
Sundance- Very do-able 5.10. Bring a #5, or old #4.5. Don't fall after the traverse on P2. Finish on Sundike. Rap the route.
Hesitation- Easiest route up Sunshine face. Well protected 5.10
Captain Hook .8/Pass Time .9/Frustration .10- Good top rope area on Buttress of Cracks. Gotta lead one of them to get there though. 70m is nice for this, but not required.
Hernia- The only reason to do this climb is because it's easy to get to. Easy 5.8 that allows you to TR some hard slab.

I've never owned a 70m rope but I have several 60m ropes that do the job. If I were you, I'd go with the 70 because it will give you a few more options. Two ropes would be overkill as there really aren't rap routes down Tahquitz worth doing.

FLAG
By EJH
From Menifee, CA
Mar 14, 2013
Pre-climb
Was up there two days ago on a scout and saw all the south facing stuff is good to go. The north side is still melting out and has quite a bit of snow still. If this heat continues it won't be long.

FLAG
By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2013
Anybody up for Suicide tomorrow, 3/15?

5.10-5.12.

FLAG
 
By Gregory D
From La Verne
Apr 17, 2013
fun in the (twilight) sun
Lows are still in the 20s. How much snow/ melt is left?

FLAG
By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Apr 17, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City
Was at Tahquitz on Sat, the front side was cool in the shade perfect in the sun (we were on Vampire). Areas between Open Book and friction descent were a bit too warm.

FLAG
By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Aug 3, 2013
It may be a drive, but you should check out Cochise in Southern Az. Awesome multi pitch granite without a lot of people.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 5, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
It may be a drive, but you should check out Cochise in Southern Az. Awesome multi pitch granite without a lot of people.

+ 1 for that....

Cochise is a cross between Josh and the Needles... I make the drive about 2 times year.

FLAG


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