Mountain Project: Climbing Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Additional Info

Getting There

See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan on 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz Rock:

White Maiden's Walkaway 5.1 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet Maiden Buttress

The Trough 5.4 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II West Face : West Face - Left Side

Angel's Fright 5.5 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...

Left Ski Track 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet South Face : South Face - Left Side

Fingertrip 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Coffin Nail 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

The Long Climb 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet Northwest Recess

Mechanic's Route 5.8 R Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet South Face : Open Book Area

Traitor Horn 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Dave's Deviation 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet West Face : West Face - Left Side

Open Book 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet South Face : Open Book Area

The Consolation 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet Northwest Recess

Whodunit 5.9 Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet Northwest Recess

El Camino Real 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Super Pooper 5.10a/b Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes

The Edge 5.11a R Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Fred 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...

The Vampire 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes

The Flakes 5.11 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes

Green Arch 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II South Face : Open Book Area

Photos of Tahquitz Rock

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BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.	Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail. L...	Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Bo...
A view of the trail... plan on a 30-50 minute hike...	Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild	I added this pic to show the distance of the hike ...
Kim, and Brett gearing up. Jonny looking over bet...	BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz	An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the se...
Tahquitz summit - late afternoon	Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.	Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz	BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.	The sign at the entrance to Humber Park(ing lot), ...
Getting closer, Tahquitz Rock	BETA PHOTO: Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park	The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far ...
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.	BETA PHOTO: The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.	The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.
Jeff Laina and J. Gregg Studying the Guidebook at ...

Comments on Tahquitz Rock

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By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 19, 2009

There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much!

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
May 4, 2009

Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise.

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 4, 2009

Tahquitz: the early years from Summit, June 1976.

By Jim Dover
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 3, 2011

Tahquitz FA list in chronological order (not that it matters to anyone but I was curious). If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. The Trough 5.4, 8/36
2. Angel's Fright 5.6, 9/36
3. Fingertip Traverse 5.3, 9/36
4. Piton Pooper 5.7, 9/36
5. White Maiden's Walkway 5.4, 8/37
6. Mechanic's Route 5.8R, 10/37
7. Jensen's Jaunt 5.6, 8/38
8. From Bad Traverse 5.6, 9/39
9. Northeast Rib 5.0 10/40
10. Traitor Horn 5.8, 1941
11. Sahara Terror 5.7, 7/42
12. Fingertrip 5.7, 9/46
13. Fingergrip 5.8, 6/47
14. Left Ski Track 5.6, 9/47
15. The Open Book 5.9, 9/47
16. Climb With No Beginning 5.6, 5/50
17. Swing Sling Traverse 5.9 9/51

By ciotti
From: CA
Apr 26, 2012

nice list jim, it would be cool to see them all in order. what about suicide rock?

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 27, 2012

Agreed great list Jim - puts a new perspective on things. One often doesn't see the FA list published like this in US guidebooks, but it was a standard practice in the UK CC guidebooks and often included historical comments form the first ascents.

By ciotti
From: CA
Nov 8, 2012

nice list Jim. I would love to see the list build from here and see one on suicide too.

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Tahquitz Rock

Description

Additional Info

Getting There

The Classics