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Tahquitz Rock

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Tahquitz Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 33.7602, -116.684 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,148,740
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
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Aaron Cassebeer on Upper Royal's Arch. Photo: Vick...

Description 

Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Additional Info 

www.sierraphotography.com/tahquitz/tahquitz.htm

Getting There 

See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan on 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.

Adventure Pass 

As of mid-2014 an Adventure Pass is no longer required to park at Humber Park.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

136 Total Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',55],['2 Stars',52],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',23],['5.7',11],['5.8',14],['5.9',15],['5.10',43],['5.11',23],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz Rock:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Maiden Buttress
The Trough   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Angel's Fright   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Left Ski Track   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face : South Face - Left Side
El Whampo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   North Face
Fingertrip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Coffin Nail   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Mechanic's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   South Face : Open Book Area
The Long Climb   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Northwest Recess
Traitor Horn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 490'   South Face : Open Book Area
Dave's Deviation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   West Face : West Face - Left Side
Whodunit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Northwest Recess
The Consolation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Northwest Recess
El Camino Real   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Super Pooper   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
The Vampire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Fred   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
The Edge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   West Face : West Face - Right Side
Green Arch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Face : Open Book Area
Browse More Classics in Tahquitz Rock

Featured Route For Tahquitz Rock
A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and yer ready fer the valley.

Coffin Nail 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side
This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensenís Jaunt....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Tahquitz Rock Slideshow Add Photo
An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the second pitch of "Human Fright". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the se...
Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail.  Look for the helicopter by the climbing area (in the trees).
Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail. L...
Encountered this Southern Pacific Rattlesnake on the trail, just below Lunch Rock. It rattled and cruised over to coil amongst the rocks.
Encountered this Southern Pacific Rattlesnake on t...
John Mendenhall on Fingertip Traverse (5.3) in 1939. Photo: Ruth Mendenhall.
John Mendenhall on Fingertip Traverse (5.3) in 193...
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Jeff Laina and J. Gregg Studying the Guidebook at Lunch Rock. 1980s. Photo: By R. Ledesma.
Jeff Laina and J. Gregg Studying the Guidebook at ...
Getting closer, Tahquitz Rock
Getting closer, Tahquitz Rock
Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.
Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.
Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.
Kim, and Brett gearing up. <br /> <br />Jonny looking over beta printed out from Mountain Project on some classic routes in the vicinity. <br /> <br />Taken 6/13/07
Kim, and Brett gearing up.

Jonny looking over bet...
Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park
BETA PHOTO: Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park
Tahquitz summit - late afternoon
Tahquitz summit - late afternoon
Tahquitz
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz
Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Book",Tahquitz.
Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Bo...
The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.
BETA PHOTO: The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.
The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far below Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock
The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far ...
From devils slide
From devils slide
a good little crag.
a good little crag.
The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.
The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
I added this pic to show the distance of the hike from the road (taken from the summit).
I added this pic to show the distance of the hike ...
Afternoon Sun on the craggy face of the San Jacinto Massif east of Suicide Rock from the notch at the top of the north face descent.
Afternoon Sun on the craggy face of the San Jacint...

Show All 29 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Tahquitz Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2014
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008
Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 19, 2009
There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much!
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
May 4, 2009
Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise.
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 4, 2009
Tahquitz: the early years from Summit, June 1976.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Oct 3, 2011
Tahquitz FA list in chronological order (not that it matters to anyone but I was curious). If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. The Trough 5.4, 8/36
2. Angel's Fright 5.6, 9/36
3. Fingertip Traverse 5.3, 9/36
4. Piton Pooper 5.7, 9/36
5. White Maiden's Walkway 5.4, 8/37
6. Mechanic's Route 5.8R, 10/37
7. Jensen's Jaunt 5.6, 8/38
8. From Bad Traverse 5.6, 9/39
9. Northeast Rib 5.0 10/40
10. Traitor Horn 5.8, 1941
11. Sahara Terror 5.7, 7/42
12. Fingertrip 5.7, 9/46
13. Fingergrip 5.8, 6/47
14. Left Ski Track 5.6, 9/47
15. The Open Book 5.9, 9/47
16. Climb With No Beginning 5.6, 5/50
17. Swing Sling Traverse 5.9 9/51
By ciotti
From: CA
Apr 26, 2012
nice list jim, it would be cool to see them all in order. what about suicide rock?
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 27, 2012
Agreed great list Jim - puts a new perspective on things. One often doesn't see the FA list published like this in US guidebooks, but it was a standard practice in the UK CC guidebooks and often included historical comments form the first ascents.
By ciotti
From: CA
Nov 8, 2012
nice list Jim. I would love to see the list build from here and see one on suicide too.
By Toby960
Jun 17, 2013
Best climbing day there in a while!

Heres my trip report;

theloveaffairwithgravity.blogs...


Climb on!
By Phil Esra
Jun 30, 2014
After poking around a bit looking for the friction descent, my partner and I just went up and over the top and down into the notch, where there is an easy-to-follow trail down the south face. This was extremely casual (almost no exposure, and just a few 3rd class steps down), and it's hard to imagine it added more than 10 minutes to the descent. Highly recommended if you don't know where the friction descent is or don't like the sound of it.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 10, 2014
I agree with you Phil. I've done both quite a few times and much prefer the scramble to the notch, especially if I have a newbie with me.