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Tahquitz Offwidths...General List

Original Post
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Looking for a general list of Tahquitz offwidths. Potentially moving to the area for summer. Any grade is fine!

Thanks

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Tahquitz and Suicide aren't particularly known for the OW climbing. The rock is generally low angled and features enough that it is pretty rare that you really have to stick an arm in an get into true offwidthing mode. While there are some widish cracks in the area, it is usually more of an awkward slabby squeeze/flare behind a flake. The Plague, at Suicide, is an example of this. Hot Buttered Rump ( mountainproject.com/v/hot-b…) is probably the most sustained wide crack climbing that you'll find up there, but it is again more a flared squeeze than a proper OW.

Other routes that come to mind are Whodunnit (chimney on 3rd pitch...not really an OW), and the Trough (more of just an easy slab/ramp thing, with an OW in it). Open Book has a widish fist crack, again not really OW.

So, not really a whole lot of true OW climbing up there. If you are in the area long term, you can probably find some wide cracks to amuse yourself at Woodson and Joshua Tree, but those will have to wait for a season other than summer. Or, there may be some OW FA opprotunities waiting on the cliffs far up and left from Tahquitz, which are relatively unexplored.

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,167
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Bryan G wrote:This one looks sort of burly
Yeah, I totally forgot about that one. Yikes; maybe I purposefully expunged it from the memory.

(Note: pic is of Paisano Overhang)
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

That reminded me-- on the back side of the same formation is the Paisano Jam crack, a very short 5.10 OW. mountainproject.com/v/paisa…

When it comes down to it though, the best routes in Idyllwild aren't the OW.

Catherine Conner · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 230

Now this is one I heard about from a friend, but wouldn't "The Swallow" fit the bill? I just remember my friend saying something about not having any big gear, having to run it out, and being freaked out by it...

Willie Wilson · · America · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 125

I remember there being an offwidth somewhere around the top of Jensen's Jaunt but its pretty easy. Like others have said Tahquitz and Suicide aren't really known for their offwidths.

Robin like the bird · · Philomath, or · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 300
wade morris wrote:Looking for a general list of Tahquitz offwidths. Potentially moving to the area for summer. Any grade is fine! Thanks
What is bringing you to the San jacintos?
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Work.
I grew up in NorCal, but currently am in Florida. I've spent most of my time through Tahoe and Yosemite.

I know there's plenty of classic hands and fingers through the area, was just looking for any wide stuff because thats usually harder to search for

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

The upper pitches of Open Book can be liebacked at 5.6/7ish or OWed a little harder.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
wade morris wrote:Work. I grew up in NorCal, but currently am in Florida. I've spent most of my time through Tahoe and Yosemite. I know there's plenty of classic hands and fingers through the area, was just looking for any wide stuff because thats usually harder to search for
You working at Astrocamp? Boojum?
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

I work for Siemens Energy. I'd be located in Irvine/ Mission Viejo

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
"The Swallow"

Good try, but when you get up close, you find a inner crack!

I loved finding that out.
Anthony Colunga · · Torrance, CA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 120

 I wanted to open this discussion up in case someone missed something...

The swallow, open book, part of jensons jaunt, hot buttered rump, the plague, whodunnit(pitch 3) and the trough.

Is there any other routes anyone can think of? 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The Mummy crack on the second pitch of The Long Climb is classic off-width.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Anthony Colunga wrote:  I wanted to open this discussion up in case someone missed something...

The swallow, open book, part of jensons jaunt, hot buttered rump, the plague, whodunnit(pitch 3) and the trough.

Is there any other routes anyone can think of? 

Only The Swallow is OW in your list and only for a short section. 

Mummy Crack doesn't really climb like OW.

Only true OWs route is Paisano Overhang and Paisano Crack.
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Chin Strap Crack, yikes.

Thomas Claiborne · · Flagstaff · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 41

Some weird flared OW-like climbing on Wet Dreams. Couple of OW-like moves on Miscalculation. I forget if it's David or Goliath at the Weeping Wall that has a bunch of squeeze moves on it. The climb to the left of Untickable has a decent amount of OW on it.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Thomas Claiborne wrote: Some weird flared OW-like climbing on Wet Dreams. Couple of OW-like moves on Miscalculation. I forget if it's David or Goliath at the Weeping Wall that has a bunch of squeeze moves on it. The climb to the left of Untickable has a decent amount of OW on it.

Chimney is not off-width.

Thomas Claiborne · · Flagstaff · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 41
Tradiban wrote:

Chimney is not off-width.

Ehhh. Just throwing out wide stuff.

DANC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

Upside down cake

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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