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Tahquitz chimneys?
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By Phil Esra
Apr 22, 2013

Any recommendations for 5.9 chimneys in Tahquitz? THANKS!


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By Richard Shore
Apr 22, 2013
Eichorns Pinnacle

Hot Buttered Rump over on Suicide.

Pitch 2 or 3 (depending on how you break it up) on Whodunit may be 5.9 bombay chimney as well.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Apr 22, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!

Phil Esra wrote:
Any recommendations for 5.9 chimneys in Tahquitz? THANKS!

What chimneys have you already done?


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By Justin Tomlinson
From Monrovia, CA
Apr 22, 2013
Summit of Mt. Langley

Second pitch of Long Climb will get you into a squeeze


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Apr 22, 2013

Not sure why it has to be 5.9 or on Tahquitz (maybe it doesn't?).

The chimney climbs I can think of (most at Suicide):
Captain Hook, 5.8
Hot Buttered Rump, 5.9
Cat's Cave Inn, 5.8
Goliath, 5.7
Frustration (.10a) has pretty lengthy section you can chimney
BC's Ouch Chimney, 5.9 (never done it)
Chatsworth Chimney, 5.7
Root Canal, 5.7
Le Dent, 5.6

Defintely more out there than I'm thinking of. Also keep in mind that some of the ratings on the 'easier' climbs are definitely old school. YMMV.


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By BrentNorum
From Claremont, CA
Apr 22, 2013
Brent, Sam, and Ryan on Traitor Horn route, 5.8.

Add a few more...

Goliath - Suicide - 5.7, low-angle, wide (but has a great 5.8 hand crack exit variation up high)
Paisano Chimney - Suicide Rock - 5.8 wide
Long Climb, first pitch - Tahquitz - 5.5/5.6
Wong Climb, second pitch - Tahquitz 5.8? (haven't done it, many avoid it)
Sword of Damocles - Suicide - 5.9 flared slot, short but strenuous
Swallow - Tahquitz - 2nd pitch, 5.9, rounded squeeze/flare/OW (short)

Hot Buttered Rump is a classic flared chimney (and pumpy), small wires.


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Apr 22, 2013

Whodunnit is 5.9, and has a chimney (pitch 3). Chimney probably is less than 5.9, though.


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By Phil Esra
Apr 22, 2013

Thanks all!

I ask because I'm hoping to hit Tahquitz/Suicide for some chimney training before a (second) attempt at Steck-Salathe.

By Tahquitz I mean both Tahquitz and Suicide, and I said 5.9 because I wanted it to be challenging-but-not-offwidth :)

I did Whodunnit last year--I loved the climb, but any chimneying must have been pretty easy, because I don't remember any details about it.

I haven't done any other wide routes there; a lot of these sound like great candidates! Especially HBR, Paisano Chimney, p2 of The Swallow, and p2 of the Long and Wong Routes. Seems like that list could keep a person busy for a weekend or so...

p.


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Apr 22, 2013

B Cs Ouch ....it's awesome..


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By Gregory D
From La Verne
Apr 22, 2013
fun in the (twilight) sun

Guillotine has like 20 or so feet of squeeze chimney at Suicide.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Apr 23, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Swallow.... I think I recall a finger crack inside of that mother, sort of spoiles the whole chimney deal.



Guillotine has like 20 or so feet of squeeze chimney at Suicide.

If you find yourself doing a squeeze, on that, your doing something wrong.

B C's = real deal.

And do "Entrance Exam - 5.8" in the Valley, that will get you all tuned for the "SS"

Good luck.... have fun.


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By Phil Esra
Apr 23, 2013

Hmm, well, I guess the chimneys don't have to be strictly mandatory--although that would take some discipline.

Arch Rock is closed for raptors past our D-Day, so I can't get on EE, unfortunately.

The MP description makes BC's sound like it doesn't really climb like a chimney?

Thanks again, all.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Apr 23, 2013

What Guy means is that you can lieback the squeeze section of The Guillotine instead of cramming yourself in there and squirming up it. I find it difficult to place pro at the top of the chimney when I do that though, so I only lieback it when I follow.


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