||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Anderson, John Teasdale. FFA P1: Terry Lien, Greg Olsen|
|Season: ||Wet after any rain...hence Tadpole|
|Page Views: ||1,128|
|Submitted By: ||Scott W on Sep 28, 2007|
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Awesome tight fingers to start, boulder move crux with a pin. Finish up an 11a offwidth/chimey/flaring corner, FUN. Aside from the boulder move the route is consistent and really fun.
This route is directly above Model Worker and can be reached as such. Or do an easier route and rappel down into it via the Newest Industry slab anchors.
Gear to 3/4", double small stuff...maybe tripples in small stuff and really light on the .5-.75 inch gear.
Aug 24, 2008
Broke the pin in the 11a flare today.
Jun 26, 2013
The route still protects really well despite the pin(s) being gone. Small cams are the ticket at the lower crux, but I do remember using a larger cam or two in the upper squeeze/flared section.
Jan 10, 2015
This pitch is mega classic, but never gets done!
If you just climb Princely and then do a 5.5 rightward traverse for 10-15m you're standing at the base.