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Heart Rock
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Tachycardia S 

Tachycardia 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matthew Selman, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,130
Submitted By: Matt Selman on Jun 22, 2012

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Matthew Selman midway through the crux pitch of Ta...
This area is located on private property.

Description 

Tachycardia ascends the most obvious weaknesses in the south face and headwall of Heart Rock. With the brief exception of the crux sequence, it stays on vertical and less-than vertical terrain for its entirety. The route is a multi-pitch adventure offering some of the most breathtaking exposure that can be had for the grade in Maple.

Pitch 1 (Vena Cava): Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters, 5.5.

Pitch 2 (The Left Ventricle): A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge–aim to the left of this feature. This pitch trends constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters, 5.6.

Pitch 3 (Tachycardia): The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge with great jugs forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, bypass a two-bolt belay in a small pod. From here, two options exist: the recommended route is to scramble across and straight up a sandstone slab (1 bolt protects the slab) to a two-bolt belay at the top of the prow (5.easy); one may also follow three bolts to the rappel station on the left. 30 meters, 5.7.

Sign the register at the summit!

Descent: If you are standing at the summit, the rappel station is about 25 feet away from you to the west, out of sight on a small prow. Scramble across the gap to reach these anchors--do not rappel from the summit proper. Rappel to the base of the headwall (30 meters). From here it is possible to make a single 30-meter rappel to the ground (rappel to the west, into the gully between Heart Rock and Changing the Stripes. Walking off is also an option, though not recommended.


Location 

Follow the approach directions in the Heart Rock Area description.


Protection 

12 quickdraws, belay station gear, 60 meter rope (or longer). As with all Maple Canyon multi-pitch routes, please wear a helmet. These routes see far less traffic than the canyon's single-pitch routes and rockfall is therefore a far greater hazard.



Photos of Tachycardia Slideshow Add Photo
Heart Rock Area overview showing <em>Changing the Stripes</em> and <em>Tachycardia</em>.
BETA PHOTO: Heart Rock Area overview showing Changing the ...
exposure
exposure
a look at the 3rd pitch
a look at the 3rd pitch
Matthew Selman and Jason Stevens at the crux of <em>Tachycardia</em>.  <br /> <br />Photograph by Randyl Nielson (nielsonphoto.com OR facebook.com/randylnielsonphoto)
Matthew Selman and Jason Stevens at the crux of
Heart rock from the pull-off
BETA PHOTO: Heart rock from the pull-off
Comments on Tachycardia Add Comment
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By Manilius
Dec 3, 2012

A highly improbable moderate for such an imposing formation. The first two pitches are casual and enjoyable. The last pitch is a bit terrifying, though well protected; once you move out of the belay cave the exposure is rattling, but moderate moves are there if'n you can keep it together. Again, a classic of a route for its ability to find a 5.8 line up Heart Rock.

By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Feb 8, 2013

I cant believe you stole this route from me! That'll teach me to eye a route for a decade and assume no one else is looking at it. Well done, Selman, well done.

By Jimmymac222
From: South Jordan, UT
May 5, 2013

This route will soon become a Maple classic. Two mellow approach pitches which are fun and serve as a nice warm up. The third and final pitch has incredible exposure, fun moves and is well bolted. Great line on an impressive feature. Do this route now!

By Jordy
May 28, 2013

So exposed! My father pulled a huge rock on the third pitch and went for a ride! I don't love the scramble from summit proper to the rappel chains (though not enough to drop from 4 to 3 stars). Other than that I loved it! I used my extra quick.

By Austin Farnworth
From: mapleton utah
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely my favorite multi pitch in maple! The person that bolted this is a genius! Maybe I'm blind or something but I couldn't find the rap anchors so we rapped down the route across the gully

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Austin I believe those are the proper rap chains. If you are looking at the bolts for summit proper, the proper belay chains are directly behind you across the small gulley (which requires a scramble to get to). We also noticed some old rap chains to the right of summit proper, but decided to not use them (seeing as how we only had a 60m rope). Amazing climb, and exposed as hell!

By Alex Marsden
From: Utah
Apr 1, 2014

We enjoyed it a ton. The name is very fitting for the third pitch. On the rap off we almost got our rope stuck so be careful on the rap. Be sure to do the last short pitch and sign the book in the ammo case. It explains where to rap from.

By Matt Reeves
From: Orem Ut
May 7, 2014

We sent it with a team of 3 so we had 2 60 M ropes, with the 2 of them tied together it was long enough to rap off the true summit. We came straight over the point at the most overhung and did not touch the rock again until the top of pitch one. I recommend it but, YOU MUST HAVE AT LEAST 100 M OF ROPE. PS be careful this rap has not been cleaned and it easy to knock rocks down on the people below you.

By Lindsey Robinson
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 3, 2014

The 3rd pitch and view from the top make this route great. And we had it all to ourselves! I'd say the crux is starting the 3rd pitch. When you get to the last anchors, there is a bolt a little ways above you that leads to the rap station. You can also see a bolt a bit to your right, where you can scramble over to the summit/ammo can. We rapped from the recommended rap chains, which took us to the top of the second pitch. Didn't see any other rap rings, so we rapped from there into the gully (and into some trees, geh).