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Ear, The S 
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Taboo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Peer, Glen Short, M.Stewart,1985
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Souljah on Apr 26, 2013

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FA Taboo Winter 1985. Verglas on the water streak ...

Description 

Crux comes between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Traverse left from 3rd bolt to a brittle flake. Pass 3 more bolts and surmount a small overlap. Continue climbing (5.9/10a) clipping a few more bolts along the way.

Typical Punchbowl rock quality keeps this route from achieving a higher star rating.

Third bolt was placed on 2nd ascent by FA's to eliminate run-out.

Location 

Route begins at a large hueco to the right of a prominent water streak located near the center of Behind The Scenes Wall.

Protection 

Follow meandering line of bolts to a chain anchor. No gear.


Photos of Taboo Slideshow Add Photo
Pebble stance below the overlap.
Pebble stance below the overlap.
Moving through the crux.
Moving through the crux.
Getting one in after the crux.
Getting one in after the crux.
Almost home.  All Photos: Glen Short
Almost home. All Photos: Glen Short

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By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Jan 26, 2015

This route is just to the left of Lucifers Tooth 5.11c/d
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