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Taboo Area
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Original Sin S 
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Taboo T 
Violator S 

Taboo 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA-Louie Anderson, 2003
Season: Corner faces northwest
Page Views: 2,300
Submitted By: bheller on Jan 4, 2009

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Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish.
One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!

Location 

As you stand looking at west face of the quarry, the Taboo area is located on the right side of the steep granite walls. Taboo is the striking left-facing dihedral that begins about 80 feet off of the ground. To the lower right of the corner there is a light-colored large rock scar. There are a few different approach pitches that lead to the base of Taboo, I used Original Sin (11b). Original Sin is obvious because it begins off a ledge you and your belayer must scramble up on and it climbs obvious chipped pockets and jugs-and its fun. With a 70m rope you can link any of the approach routes with the Taboo dihedral and lower back down to the ground.

Protection 

4 bolts protect off the midway belay ledge/anchors, and then nuts and doubles of cams from tips to off-fingers. (purple#0's to red#4's in metolius) Use draws/slings to elimiate drag in this steep corner.Ring anchors at the top of the crack- no finishing traverse to the left needed. You'll also need extra draws to lead the bolted approach pitches.


Photos of Taboo Slideshow Add Photo
Taboo is the left facing corner that casts the shadow on the upper half of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: Taboo is the left facing corner that casts the sha...
2-18-12
2-18-12
In this photo you can see the midway ledge with ring anchors and the ring anchors at the top of the dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: In this photo you can see the midway ledge with ri...
2-18-12
2-18-12
An even closer view.
BETA PHOTO: An even closer view.
2-18-12
2-18-12

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