|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||FFA-Louie Anderson, 2003|
|Season: ||Corner faces northwest|
|Page Views: ||2,081|
|Submitted By: ||bheller on Jan 4, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.
This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish.
One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!
As you stand looking at west face of the quarry, the Taboo area is located on the right side of the steep granite walls. Taboo is the striking left-facing dihedral that begins about 80 feet off of the ground. To the lower right of the corner there is a light-colored large rock scar. There are a few different approach pitches that lead to the base of Taboo, I used Original Sin (11b). Original Sin is obvious because it begins off a ledge you and your belayer must scramble up on and it climbs obvious chipped pockets and jugs-and its fun. With a 70m rope you can link any of the approach routes with the Taboo dihedral and lower back down to the ground.
4 bolts protect off the midway belay ledge/anchors, and then nuts and doubles of cams from tips to off-fingers. (purple#0's to red#4's in metolius) Use draws/slings to elimiate drag in this steep corner.Ring anchors at the top of the crack- no finishing traverse to the left needed. You'll also need extra draws to lead the bolted approach pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Taboo is the left facing corner that casts the sha...
BETA PHOTO: In this photo you can see the midway ledge with ri...
BETA PHOTO: An even closer view.